March 17 is a great day for the Irish and for the fisherman. The arrival of
St.Patrick’s Day marks the official start of the fishing season in New York waters
with the awakening of the flounders from their winter’s sleep.
At this time in mid-March, the waters have usually warmed just enough to get the
flounders moving in the deep muddy holes in which they have spent the winter months.
To catch flounder at this early time in the season requires some knowledge of the bay
bottom and the cooperation of mother nature. It is a necessity to be fishing in one of the
deep over-wintering areas as the flounder will not move out into the shallows until the
water has warmed significantly. This will usually not occur until about mid April. The
last two weeks in March can be very windy and cold. If a two or three day blast of frigid
air hits, it usually will send the flounder back to bed. In this case it is best to wait
for better conditions to plan your trip. However, a day or two of mild weather will
probably return them to their feeding activities. Because they tend to concentrate in
these deep and confined areas, the fishing can be quite good under these conditions.
I have experienced the most success at this time of the year working the deep holes
along the State Boat Channel. The thirty foot hole just east of Gilgo has always produced
well as does the channel around Black Bank and Squaw Island. Occasionally the Sore Thumb
pocket near Fire Island Inlet and the deep ferry boat channels off Heckscher State Park
can also be productive.
Because the water is cold, the fish are slow to move. They must be enticed to begin to
feed and therefore chumming and/or stirring the bottom is absolutely a must. I use a
combination of ground clam chum in a weighted chum pot with a few fresh mussels cracked
and spread around the area under the boat. I also employ a "flounder- pounder"
or weighted device to churn up the bottom and free tiny morsels from the sediment.
For hook bait I like to have both clam and worms available. I begin with some of both
on my two hook rig and then switch to all of the type that receives the most attention of
the flounder. It seems that from one day to the next, or in a different area, only one of
these baits will be the preferred food for Mr. Flounder.
Presentation of the bait is all-important. A bait that is constantly moving due to a
shifting boat will not catch fish. Many March days are breezy. One should be prepared to
use a two anchor system. This will reduce the wind shear and lessen the shifting of the
boat.
Color seems to attract flounder and I prefer yellow. I use a tandem-tied two hook rig
with yellow plastic beads. A variety of these rigs can be purchased in any tackle shop.
To keep it a sporting affair and enjoy the scrappy fight a flounder can give, I suggest
the use of very light tackle. I have recently come to enjoy ultra light spinning gear. It
is a real thrill to catch even a one pound flounder using 4 lb. test line and ½ oz. of
lead weight. With only a small amount of water resistance, the flounder can swim laterally
and really put up quite a battle. Keeping it a sport is really what it is all about!
I know flounders aren’t really Irish but St. Patrick’s Day has passed and the
flounder season is off to a good start. Grab a rod and some bait and get out there and
have some fun!
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
Live bait fishing for stripers is a very exciting and often rewarding technique. In
most cases, a large live bait will produce trophy size specimens. Due to this well-known
fact, live bait fishing has become very popular with the resurgence of the striped bass
population.
The two most widely used live baits are eels and bunker although many other types of
live baits are used. It is this fact that brings me to an important point for
consideration.
When using eels as the bait, it is customary to use a single hook. An eel is an easily
swallowed soft bodied bait with little bulk to interfere with hook setting and therefore a
single hook is sufficient. Bunker on the other hand are quite different. Because it is a
large and a tough skinned bait, it interferes with hook setting, resulting in many missed
fish. This fact was discovered many years ago. At some point in time, a creative angler
discovered that a treble hook with one tine through the lower jaw, and one through the
nostril of the bunker, would get a hook-up almost every time. As a result, the use of
treble hooks for "bunker dunking" is still a very common method used today.
So, what is the point? Any bass that manages to swallow the entire bunker with treble
hook and become gut hooked is most likely going to die! What is also a fact is that fish
under the legal size limit must be returned to the water dead or alive. Using a treble
hook is therefore not in the best interest of striped bass conservation.
The conservation of the recently revived striped bass population is now a major
responsibility of the rod and reel sportfisherman. Considering this fact, I tried some
experiments using single hook arrangements.
I discovered that a bait hooked in any body part other than the head did not swim
correctly in a hard running tide. I was not getting many pickups using this method. I then
tried hooking the bait in a non-vital part of the head. The presentation of the bait
improved and I got more pickups. However, due to the amount of tough tissue in the head of
a bunker, the hook would not pull freely from the bait and would not set cleanly in the
fish. Most pickups were not hooked securely.
I like to catch fish and to release them in good condition. This variation of terminal
tackle provides for both of these needs. I recommend that all you "bunker
dunkers" give it a try. I think you will be satisfied with the results and avoid
having to experience those awful feelings of guilt and waste when cutting loose a
beautiful striper that is gut hooked and doomed by a treble hook.
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
Taken out of context, this title may seem redundant. To a fisherman however, it has a
special meaning. There are really two ends to a fishing line. One end is fixed to the
reel, rod, and the anxious fisherman. The other end, the terminal end, is the one that is
supposed to catch the fish. The terminal end however, will not catch fish unless it has
some sort of hook, lure, bait, etc.. These additions are referred to as terminal tackle.
The "terminal end" is most important to the fisherman but is often
overlooked! Regardless of the investment in boats, rods, reels, time or effort, if
terminal tackle is not appropriate to the job at hand, then all of that investment is
wasted.
Live-bait fishing for trophy stripers is one of my favorite kinds of fishing. I have
specialized in this type of fishing for many years. I have had the opportunity to try all
types of tackle and terminal gear. In the course of this investigation I have had many
successes and failures, all of which have led me to the combination that works most
effectively. This is a natural process, and I am sure that I will continue to experiment
to try to improve or adapt to changes as they come.
When live-bait fishing, a well balanced, quality rod and reel is an important
consideration. I am using a Penn
Power Stick #PC3801, with a Penn
535 graphite reel, spooled with 25lb Ande line. This combination is light and sporting
and yet powerful enough for the biggest of bass.
One very important rule I believe in firmly is, "SIMPLE RIG-SHARP HOOK!".
What does this mean when it comes to live-bait fishing? It means that the bait itself
attracts the fish. Anything else that may distract the attention of the fish will reduce
the chance for a pick-up and a hook-up! Keep the rig as basic as possible and always check
and sharpen your hooks when necessary.
I do most of my live-bait fishing around the Fire Island Inlet on Long Island in New
York. I use a very simple but effective terminal rig. I clinch knot a 3oz. drail to my
25lb line. I tie a double surgeon’s loop at one end of a four foot leader of 50lb
mono and clip it to the snap swivel at the trailing end of the drail. I clinch knot the
leader to a 6/0 - 8/0 live bait style hook and the rig is complete. The loop at the drail
end of the leader allows for a quick replacement when necessary. The only variation to
this rig might be an increase or a decrease in drail weight to match the current
conditions and water depth.
The change that might be required in drail weight is a simple one to accomplish. Simply
go up or down by one ounce increments until just enough weight is present to maintain the
bait within a few feet of the bottom. If you can lift the rod tip then quickly drop it and
feel the drail touch bottom, the weight is sufficient.
The most common baits used in live-bait fishing for striped bass are bunker and eels.
When fishing eels I use only one type of hook in all situations, a short shank live bait
style hook in 6/0 or 7/0 size. These hooks are very strong and usually quite sharp right
out of the package. Don’t forget to check the point and put a file to it if it
isn’t needle sharp. To hook the eel, the hook is run into the mouth and out an eye
socket. This placement of the hook gives it a sure hold in tough tissue and also allows
the eel to continue to pass water through its mouth and stay healthy and lively.
Fishing live bunker or any other live, hard bodied baitfish, requires more
consideration. In the past, most anglers fished bunker using a 4/0 size treble hook. One
point was inserted through the lower jaw, a second point through one nostril and the third
remained unattached. This method is no longer acceptable as it results in many gut hooked
fish that will not survive when released. A treble hook is almost impossible to remove
cleanly once it has been swallowed beyond the narrow throat. In these memorable days of a
revived striped bass fishery with size and bag limits, many bass must be returned to the
water so that they may survive! The use of treble hooks is therefore not in the best
interest of the sport.
Considering an alternative to using treble hooks, I tried experimenting with single
hook arrangements. I found that when hooked in any body part other than the head, the bait
did not swim correctly in a hard running tide. I was not getting many pick-ups due to its
unnatural action. I then tried hooking the bait in a non-vital part of the head. The
action improved, and I was getting lots of pick-ups. However, due to the tough tissue in
the head region of most baitfish, the hook would not pull free from the bait. I was
getting pick-ups but pulling the hook on most fish.
Being determined I finally came up with a variation that has proven to work extremely
well. I use a large #56 Berkley double-lock snap. I attach the small side of the snap to
the eye of a single 7/0 or 8/0 live bait hook. This must be done in an orientation that
sets the open large side of the snap turning opposite to the bend in the hook. I then use
the hook or a needle to make a small hole in the tough head or nose tissue of the
baitfish. The point of the large side of the snap is then passed from the top of the head
or nose, through the hole, out the mouth and snapped closed. The hook remains free
swinging along the side of the head. Fish caught with this rig are almost always mouth
hooked meaning they may be released relatively unharmed.
One additional hook arrangement should also be a part of the live-bait fisherman’s
arsenal. Big bluefish have a nasty habit of attacking a bait from the tail and are
therefore rarely hooked. Even if they do manage to get hooked, they almost always chew
through the mono leader and are lost during the fight. For such situations I have devised
another little addition to my tackle box. I prepare tail hooks on a short piece of vinyl
coated braided or single strand wire. I make them about six inches long with a barrel
swivel at one end and a 7/0 hook at the other end. If the bluefish show up I can quickly
add the tail hook to my double-lock snap and use a rubber band to fasten the hook to the
tail of the bait. I can then have fun catching and beating the bluefish at their game.
One additional point to consider for the safe release of fish in the spirit of
conservation or when tagging, gaffing a fish that is going to be released is not
acceptable! Fish that are to be released should be carefully netted and handled gently
while onboard. Even netting is detrimental to the fish as it removes some of the natural
protective slime from the body. When it is possible I use a device called a
"BogaGrip" that locks onto the jaw of the fish. I simply lean over the side of
the boat while holding the leader and lock it on the lower jaw. I can then remove the hook
while the fish is still in the water or gently bring it aboard. It works quite well and it
also has a built-in accurate scale for weighing your trophy. If the fish is brought into
the boat, a wet towel placed over the head and eyes will keep it calm. Remember to return
the fish to the water as soon as possible and not to handle it by the gills. Placing your
hand in the gill slits can cause irreparable damage to the fish.
The "terminal end" is a critical part of fishing tackle. I have spent much
time developing and perfecting terminal rigs that are effective. I have found this both
challenging and rewarding. Experimenting and being innovative is part of what makes
fishing so much fun! I hope my suggestions will work well for you.
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
Fishermen are facing a big problem; the government will probably shut down the LORAN
system within the next few years. GPS or Global Positioning System will then be the only
navigation system in operation. Before that time, all LORAN fixes in TD’s (time
differences) must be converted to the GPS system which uses LAT/LON (latitude and
longitude). A number of difficulties exist in the conversion process.
Every fisherman has a collection of LORAN fixes for favorite fishing holes, wrecks
etc.. With LORAN, these spots could be relocated with an accuracy of about 30 ft. using
pre-established TD’s originally set on the same machine. When the LORAN system fixes
a position it does so in TD’s and converts these to LAT/LON mathematically. The
LAT/LON values calculated cannot be expected to be accurate to the degree required to find
a small wreck or fishing spot. The user therefore cannot simply transfer this information
to the GPS memory and expect it to be useful. It will get you to the general neighborhood
but be off by up to 100 meters. Not very good if you are looking for a small piece of
wreckage in a big body of water.
The other problem that exists is that the GPS signals are purposely degraded by the
military for national security with something called Selective Availability or SA. With
this system working, GPS fixes can be off up to 100 meters. They are usually much better
than this figure but 30 meters is about the best obtainable. This error may vary in any
direction at any given time and is obviously much too great for precise location. The
public and GPS manufacturers have been raising a stink and the government has said they
are considering removing the SA degradation. If they do, GPS without SA has a working
error with satellite fixes of up to 30 meters. This is still not as good as the loran
system could fix a position in TD’s. In addition, you can bet if there is any
military action, the SA feature would be turned back on. They couldn’t care less if
you could not find your favorite honey hole for a day of fishing.
The answer to this dilemma is DGPS or Differential Global Positioning System. This
system uses an additional set of broadcast stations that are land based. These stations
send out signals that continuously add corrections to the GPS fixes. It requires the use
of a small secondary receiver unit and antenna called a "Differential" or DGPS.
This unit attaches to an already existing GPS unit that has "Differential"
capability. Almost all GPS units include this feature. With a DGPS operating, fixes of
less than 10 meters are guaranteed and 5 meters are common with just average price range
units. This kind of accuracy is even better than loran. Some higher priced DGPS units can
guarantee fixes within only a few centimeters!
Getting back to the original problem of converting LORAN fixes to GPS, the only sure
method is to run both LORAN and GPS units side by side. Relocate your old favorite fishing
spot using your loran and then store that position in your GPS unit while using the DGPS.
Once saved in this way, the fixes will be absolutely accurate and repeatable and even more
precise than your old LORAN numbers. In addition, these new DGPS numbers will be just as
accurate if used by another person using DGPS. In other words, you can share your spots
with others or may get new fixes from friends but only if they were originally determined
using DGPS.
Table of Contents
CABIN FEVER ALERT!
The onset of winter is near! What am I going to do to keep myself occupied until
spring? The boat is out of the water and all winterized, covered like a little baby, just
awaiting the first spring thaw. Everything that needed attention and preparation for the
cold season has been taken care of or has it? Probably the most important consideration of
all has been overlooked, a plan of action to prevent the onset of a sportsperson's worst
winter enemy, "cabin fever".
This condition is due to an excessive amount of time spent indoors with nothing much to
do or even worse, things to do that you hate doing. If you are like me or at least like I
used to be, the lack of a plan is what lets the disease catch up to you. It is no
different than normal disease prevention, steps must be taken to prevent catching it.
I used to get caught by getting distracted with the holiday season. When the fishing
season ended, preparation for the winter holidays kept me busy and jolly..."Ho, Ho,
Ho". Soon after however, I found myself increasingly irritable, and before I knew it
I was totally bummed out, hating the thought of more than two months of waiting for the
next fishing season, cabin fever struck!
I finally realized that I could not take another winter of the same mental anguish. It
seemed to me that I must develop a plan of action and I did. I set very specific goals,
listed them in order of personal interest and importance, and even set up a calendar
planner for activities. Once I had set these goals and made plans, I then had things to
look forward to. This process, at least in my case, has proven to be the best preventive
action that can be taken. Hopefully it would also work for you if you experience similar
anxieties.
A number of the things that I have included in my disease prevention program should be
of universal interest and importance to the sportfishing population. Perhaps if I mention
a few, it may help you to develop a plan of your own.
Loving to fish as I do, my first consideration is to plan fishing trips. I try to go on
a cod trip on one of the open boats out of Captree at least once a month, weather
permitting. I set up a special duffel bag with all the fishing equipment and clothing I
might need for such a trip and have it all ready to go. Of course I made up a special 8ft.
cod rod that I wrapped myself. Nothing fancy but it gets the job done. Something you might
consider is building a bunkerspoon trolling rod. These rods cannot be purchased from
commercial rod manufacturers but are specialty rods that must be custom crafted. They are
very expensive and cost somewhere between $250 to $400 apiece. Why not build one or two
yourself and save at least $100 per rod? They really make the spoon more effective and the
bass are certainly there to catch. You might consider making a few rods; it can be a lot
of fun, a great winter project.
I also made a point of trying my hand at white perch fishing in the tidal streams and
canals in my area. I had heard a lot about this fishing but never set my mind to trying
it. I finally did and found it very rewarding and easy to do. I purchased a fairly
inexpensive ultralight Penn spinning outfit and basic terminal gear at the local tackle
store. With a little advice from some friends and fishing articles I had read I set out to
give it a try and did quite well. As long as the ice is not excessive, it is a perfect
time filler for a couple of hours. Just jump in the car, head for the local creeks and
make a few casts. It gets you out of the house, into the fresh air and sometimes may even
provide a meal of fresh and very tasty fish.
If my budget permits, I plan a fishing excursion for a few days in Florida or some
other warm and inviting southern oasis. My budget rarely allows for such a trip, but when
I must travel south during the winter to visit relatives, I at least set up a one day
fishing outing with one of the local guides in the area I am visiting.
I have also found that the winter provides the time for me to sit down and do some
writing. I try to set aside a specific day and time each week just for writing. Not that
everyone might enjoy writing, but as sportfishing enthusiasts we have a responsibility to
let ourselves be heard by the people that govern and influence our sport and our lives.
Writing to local, state and federal representatives of government, and organizations that
deal with the environment and fishing regulation is a most important activity.
In addition to the things that I have already mentioned, I have also become involved in
a number of other activities that keep me active during "cabin fever season". In
recent years I have become more active in hunting. Waterfowling, bow and pistol hunting
for whitetails, and target shooting keep me busy all fall, winter and spring. These
activities may not be for you but I have found them very rewarding. If your therapy
requires some additional activity give hunting a try, you might like it.
I also plan my calendar so that I can attend as many of the fishing related shows,
exhibits and seminars. The New York National Boat Show, the Long Island Boat Show, the New
York Sportfishing Federation Forum are just a few of the events on tap for this year. I
will be at most of the shows. Looking forward to seeing you at these events and hope you
are feeling "healthy".
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1994
Table of Contents
SPRING
STRIPER FISHING
It's no big secret that there is usually an excellent run of big bass in the spring but
oddly enough many fishermen do not focus their attention on this exciting fishery. The
fall run is usually the one that gets most of the attention. As a result, many anglers are
missing an excellent opportunity for catching a trophy striped bass, especially if they
are using live bait.
In thinking about this situation I have come to the conclusion that a significant
number of fishermen probably avoid fishing for striped bass in the spring because they
have tried previously but have not been successful. The disappointment and frustration of
fishless trips can sour an attitude quickly. I experienced the same disheartening feelings
when I started to fish for bass many years ago and had little to show for my efforts. This
being the case, I can understand why this situation exists. What I have come to find out,
however, is that spring fishing can be just as good as fall fishing if not better.
Through the expense of a great amount of time and effort, I learned that there are
plenty of fish for the catching during this time of year. More importantly, I also learned
that to be successful in the spring requires a different set of strategies and techniques.
Getting rid of the notion that spring and fall fishing are exactly alike is the first step
to catching more fish.
Spring fishing is different because bass behavior is different. I am not implying that
spring and fall bass are totally different animals but subtle differences in their
behavior and the conditions of their environment at these different times must be
understood in order to achieve fishing success.
It has always been my opinion that live baits catch the biggest fish and many bass
fishermen are aware of this fact. The problem is that a good number of anglers are
unimaginative and a little lazy and fall into a fishing rut. The biggest rut is failing to
be creative and not trying to outsmart the elusive striped bass. A good example of this
attitude is thinking that an eel is the best and only live bait to use and continuing to
make repeated fishless trips drifting eels and blaming it on a lack of fish. The simple
reason for this situation is that fishing eels is very convenient. They can be bought at
any tackle shop are easy to keep and, yes, they are often an excellent bait but generally
not in the spring.
Break those old habits and try something new. In the spring, stripers are migrating
rapidly along the coast heading north. They feed along the way but in my experience I have
not found them to be as aggressive feeders as they are in the fall. Perhaps the drive to
get to their preferred warm weather feeding grounds makes them picky when it comes to food
found along the way as opposed to their massive feeding binge in the fall prior to a lean
winter and spawning in the rivers. As a result, I have been most successful with very
lively highly visible bait. In my opinion, the bunker is second to none for spring
fishing. I have also had excellent results with flounder, blackfish, seabass and bergalls
(remember that baits must be legal keeper size) but have definitely caught most fish on
bunker. To the fisherman in that rut I described, this presents a problem. Fishing bunker
gets involved. Snagging, cast netting, and setting up a livewell requires a lot of work,
but then who ever said that bass fishing was easy? If you want to be successful in the
spring, the extra effort and experimentation with baits is an absolute must.
The other major factor to consider is the rapidly warming water and its effect upon
tidal feeding activity and location. Toward the end of June, the shallow bays will be
heated to a point where the ebbing tide, normally the most productive tide, will be
carrying water above optimum conditions for bass toward the inlets. This wall of hot water
will push the bass back towards the inlet area. As a result, the back bay areas will
become less productive for fishing but the action at the inlets will usually remain good
for a couple of hours at least until the warmer water reaches that area. I therefore
concentrate my efforts closer to the inlet areas during this time.
Conversely this also means that the flooding tide returns the still cool ocean waters
into the bays so incoming tide starts to provide more consistent action as it works its
way toward the back bay areas. Following this rush of cool water will usually provide good
action.
During this time of year I monitor my temperature gauge closely. I try to fish the most
productive bottom structure that I can find that lies in water of optimum temperature
conditions which is usually between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
In summing up the situation, a combination of paying close attention to types of bait
used and water temperatures of the particular area being fished is crucial to spring bass
fishing. There are many other basic bass fishing strategies and techniques that must be
mastered in order to experience any measurable success with striped bass during any
season. These additional considerations I have mentioned hopefully might prove to be
useful and convince some of you to make a more concerted effort at catching a trophy fish
this spring.
I am looking forward to the new season. I will be running a new 3.0 Liter Mercury
engine on my boat "Skimmer" this year as part of the Mercury Marine "Pro
Team". After running Mercury engines for 25 years and knowing how they have always
performed and hearing all the positive reports about this new power plant, I am sure it
will be an awesome experience. I'll also be experimenting with some new Penn rods and
reels including their new line of flyreels. Tim Smith and I have plans to produce at least
two more videos during this season. My previous efforts, "Fishing For Striped Bass
Volume #1 Live Bait" and "Cast Netting For Live Bait" have been very
successful and I plan to continue making videos that are entertaining and informative and
that portray fishing as it really is, an exciting, challenging and wholesome sport. The
continued support and quality products of companies like Mercury Marine and Penn Fishing
Tackle really goes a long way in making it all possible.
I enjoyed seeing and speaking to many of you at the NYSFF Forum this past February. It
was a great show and it was quite obvious to me that there are a lot of people very
excited about the upcoming bass season. Here's hoping your efforts are rewarded with the
trophy of a lifetime this spring!
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1994
Table of Contents
"WINTER
FISHING - PARTY BOAT STYLE"
To a boat owner, the approach of the holidays spells the end of the fishing season here
in the northeast. Thoughts of delightful days on the water are replaced by concerns of
winterizing the boat to protect it from the elements of the harsh winter to come. For me,
this used to be a sad time, sort of like parting with a good friend. A few years ago,
however, I discovered that I could still enjoy the rewards of a day of fishing all through
the winter season. I discovered that fishing for cod on one of the local party boats was a
lot of fun and very rewarding.
Party boat fishing for cod in the winter is not at all like drifting for fluke on a
balmy day in July. As such, it requires some important preparation. Protection from the
cold ranks high on the priority list. If one would also hope to bag a few tasty cod to
grace the holiday table, then some thought should be given to tactics and tackle.
Living in Babylon, I find it most convenient to patronize the boats at Captree. I have
found that familiar faces and the development of a rapport with the captain, crew and
regular customers from one area or boat is most valuable.
As for choosing a boat to sail with, I suggest trying a couple of different boats at
the beginning. Each boat has its own particular style and attributes. When you find one
that is comfortable for you, patronize that boat as a regular. Remember that it is a
business in which regular customers are valued highly. Crews are more willing to go the
extra distance for a regular customer. While on the subject of crews, their regular salary
is nothing to brag about. They depend upon tips to make a descent day's pay.
Winter weather is an important consideration in planning a trip. During this time of
year, windless, warm and dry days are almost unheard of, and a certain amount of
discomfort is to be expected. However, to board a boat when the forecast calls for winds
in excess of 20 mph., temperatures below 20 degrees, and a possibility of sleet or snow is
asking for trouble. For these reasons, I avoid long range plans. I listen to the forecasts
and wait for the right day, usually finalizing my plan the night before.
Concerning proper dress, the rule is light but warm. Layers of lighter weight clothing
provide warmth without restricting movement. A quality set of lightweight thermal
underwear, such as made by Helly Hansen, warm street clothes and a set of coveralls
containing thinsulate is usually sufficient for basic warmth. Insulated waterproof boots
and gloves are a must, as is a heavy duty set of foul weather gear for when conditions get
sloppy or for added warmth. Don't forget that a great amount of body heat is lost from an
uncovered head, so a quality woolen watchcap that can be pulled down over the ears is also
in order. In addition, winter seas are usually lumpy even on windless days, so take the
normal precautions to prevent seasickness.
Well, how about catching fish? In my experience, I have found that two rules pay off
with fish most often. Keep terminal tackle to a minimum and get it where the other guys
aren't.
The first part is easy. I use a single 7/0 cod style snelled hook attached to a dropper
loop three feet above a sinker just heavy enough to hold bottom under the prevailing
conditions. I thread on a single skimmer clam, hooking it through the hard tissue several
times and running it on up the shank of the hook. This is all that I use, and I have been
high hook on the boat a number of times.
The process of getting your bait to be in the most productive spot can actually begin
long before the boat leaves the dock. What I am referring to is getting a prime position
from which to fish. Since this is a first come first pick affair, it might require
arriving at the boat an hour or two before sailing time. I consider the stern quarter to
be the best position on the boat. From this position a number of factors are in your
favor. Underhand casting can be directed both to the side and astern, thus covering more
territory. Baits fished astern from a boat at anchor will not be dragged by currents and
are usually the first to be encountered by cod moving up current to the smells of these
offerings. Your fishing line also will not run under the boat as it undergoes its normal
shifting from side to side. If a stern position is not available, I would take the bow as
my second choice. This area provides a degree of advantage similar to the stern, and in
addition, is usually not too crowded.
What kind of tackle should you use? My suggestion is to keep it as light as possible
but of high quality. Large metal spool reels just cannot cast the distance necessary.
Heavy line inhibits casting and requires an excessive amount of sinker weight in order to
stay put on the bottom. Double hook rigs with three skimmers on each again restrict
casting and are prone to move in the current. I have never been outfished by someone
employing such gear or techniques.
I use a Penn 970 reel, as it is compact but strong and made for casting. In addition,
it has a high speed retrieve, and a very smooth drag system. Many people laugh when they
see this reel being used for cod, especially when it is spooled with only 25 lb. test
line. It has caught 40lb. cod and for that matter 40lb. striped bass with no problems in
the past. I do splice in a ten foot section of 40lb. mono to the terminal end of my
running line in order to prevent breakage of the lighter line at the hook and sinker
connection. For a rod, I use an eight foot fast taper medium-heavy blank, preferably
graphite. I utilize a minimum of guides and only cork tape on the butt section to which I
tape on the reel using a number of wraps of electrical tape. This keeps the outfit light
and allows placement of the reel so as to allow for the best casting leverage. With this
combination, I can easily cast 75-100 feet and thus get my bait out there all alone and
looking good for the first hungry codfish that swims toward the boat.
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1995
Table of Contents
"A TALE OF TWO BASS
FISHERMEN"
Otherwise known as
"THE DAY OF THE BIG
BASS"
"It was the best of times, it was the worst of times". Sound familiar? Well,
this story has a little of both to be told. I could not tell the story of how I caught a
65 pound striped bass without there being a moral or a few lessons attached. That would be
too much like bragging!
It began like one of the many fishing adventures that Len Lapsys and I have had since
we have known each other. The weather was good and the anticipation for tangling with
stripers was high. Our juices were flowing, we were excited, just like kids in a candy
store.
The fishing had been good and steadily improving over the last two weeks before that
late October day. We had great expectations! We were loaded with excellent live bait, a
dozen blackfish and at least four dozen eels. Little did I expect that this would all be
needed. How happy I am that it was not eleven blackfish!
We began fishing near the inlet, on the ebbing tide, early that morning and immediately
were into fish. About half the fish we were catching were legal keeper size of 36 inches.
We released all these fish waiting for a big one. We had our hearts set on catching a good
sized fish, one of at least 30 pounds or more. We were having a great time, enjoying all
the action and glad to see the great numbers of bass that at one time had been so scarce.
This enjoyable situation did not last long, and rapidly degenerated into a nerve
wracking experience. As the number of boats increased with the late risers entering into
the scene, the mugging as I call it, became unbearable.
Mugging on the water is no doubt a lot more common than in our inner cities. Instead of
taking your money or pocketbook, the fish muggers take away your opportunity to fish as
you would like to, in a spot that you found first. Muggers do not do very much on their
own. They certainly do not invest any of their time in finding a productive area where
they can fish on their own. They position themselves where they see some boats and usually
search with their binoculars to spot a fish being caught. Sometimes they will stop nearby
and ogle you as if you were naked, waiting for you to do something that they might be able
to copy. They then run right up to the boat that is catching the fish and casually drop
in, close enough to have a conversation in whisper tones. They also will usually run
directly over the fish, spooking them, instead of circling the area when returning to make
a new drift. They are prone to short drift, dropping in on the down-tide side of your
boat, so they can pass over the productive spot first. These people would probably not
stare in public or invade someone's private space, but on the water they seem to think it
is perfectly acceptable to be obnoxious. Sometimes I really can't keep from laughing at
their foolish attempt to appear casual. In general, when this happens, things get chaotic,
and fishing becomes a lot less fun.
On this particular day it was worse than ever. Although fish were being caught in
several of the productive inlet areas, whenever I would move to escape the muggers and
explore other promising areas, they would follow with a vengeance.
At one point that day, near the end of the ebbing tide, I dropped a small marker buoy
to help me align my drift. I will sometimes do this during increasing or decreasing tide
flow, when the wind is blowing across the line of the drift. These conditions make it
particularly difficult to line up a drift so that the boat will pass directly over what is
usually a small productive piece of bottom. On each successive drift the tidal force is
changing and the wind will effect the direction of drift to some varying degree. This is
common during the last hour and first hour of a tide. With a small marker buoy and a
little use of the boat engine, a close pass can usually be accomplished.
I should have known better than to attempt this maneuver, but I figured that moving a
good distance away from all the boats, to an area that was quiet, would get me some
breathing space. I dropped my marker near a small ledge that I knew had produced fish in
the past and proceeded to make some short drifts near it. Len and I each caught a fish on
the second pass and marked a good bunch on the video recorder. Within five minutes
however, the boats descended upon us like a pack of wolves. They surrounded us, drifted
over my buoy, fouled it in their lines, and dragged it all over the place. As a result of
the commotion I am sure, the big body of fish I had marked, moved from the area. I moved
too!
The reality of that day and just about any other day during the peak of the bass run,
is that there are fish in many spots. Almost every move that I made produced fish. Some of
the places that were productive, were places I had never previously tried, others were old
honey holes. Finding the fish is a very big part of the excitement of bass fishing. The
bass mugger never allows himself the opportunity for this enjoyment. There is a lesson to
be learned; you don't have to fish where everybody else is fishing in order to catch fish.
When you do catch in your own spot, you will appreciate and enjoy it much more.
Another observation I have made over the years is that the big fish tend to group
together and, the biggest of the big feed first. This is the other great advantage to
finding new spots, moving from place to place, and being the first to fish a given area.
When I am bass fishing, I am always looking for the big fish. If I catch a small fish or
two, I will move, looking for the bigger ones. When I find them, the biggest one is
usually caught first. I guess they are the best at what they do, that's how they got so
big. On that day I moved more than I would have liked to, but as it turned out, it worked
out for the best.
When the tide shifted to incoming, the flood, many boats headed for home. I guess
someone told them that bass only feed on the ebbing tide. The same person probably told
them where to fish. When the tide changed and the fishing stopped in that spot, it
probably never occurred to them that another spot might produce more fish. Most likely
they just didn't want to spend some of their own time learning about the ways of the bass.
Instant gratification of the unearned type permeates our society.
Len and I decided that we would not quit until we had caught a big fish, ran out of
bait, or ran out of energy. I continued to keep moving, trying all likely areas, but now
not impeded by the opportunists that were so numerous earlier in the day. At this point,
it was really Len's spirit and determination that kept us going. He is as dedicated and
accomplished at the art of fishing as one could ever be. Len knows that patience usually
pays big dividends. He is willing to stick it out through the slow times because
experience has taught him that better times will come. "Paying your dues",
"Putting in your time", these expressions are the hallmark of the successful and
fulfilled fisherman. Onward we went!
It was after about two hours of no action, no marks on the machine, and ready to make
the proverbial last drift, that we hit the mother lode. On the first drift through the
area, we both had runoffs. On the second drift and every one after for the next two hours,
we were into a fish. These fish however, were not the average size fish that we were
catching all season and earlier that day, most of them were large, 25 to 35 pounds. In
keeping with my philosophy, one of the first fish caught in that spot was a good keeper. I
put it on my hand scale and it registered 38 pounds. Len decided he wanted to keep it but
it would not fit in my aft fish box. We laid it on the deck and kept it wet during all the
hot action that followed.
Not knowing how big a fish we would boat or how long the action would last made it
difficult to resist the temptation to keep our second fish which would then fill our
limit. We were determined however to not take anything short of a real trophy. I am sure
that several fish we released were over the 40 pound mark. At this point the tide was
easing up, and we were running out of bait. Eels were the hot bait that day and we had run
out. Between the bluefish chop-off and other normal attrition, we were at that point down
to two live blackfish. As the tide slowed to a crawl, the action died. Was it over? Was
that it for a great day of fishing? Of course not, we still had two baits left!
I decided to push our luck and try one last spot before calling it quits. We still had
bait and room for one more fish so we made a move and dropped in another spot, once again
all alone and with beautiful drifting conditions. As soon as my bait, blackfish number
twelve, hit the bottom, I had a strong pick-up and runoff. I struck the fish to set the
hook and pulled the bait from its mouth. I could tell from the resistance on the line that
the bait was still on the hook, so I immediately dropped back line, free-spooling the reel
to allow the blackfish to stand still near the fish I just missed. In a couple of seconds
it paid off as I was again picked up with a strong take and tremendous runoff. I struck,
and this time set the hook in the fish. At the same time, Len got hung in the bottom. My
fish took a nonstop run for the shallows near the beach. In fact, the fish nearly beached
itself and was thrashing about, half submerged in about six inches of water, trying to
shake the hook. He had stripped about seventy five yards of line from my Penn 25 GLS reel.
Before I could concentrate on this fish which I knew had to be a good size, I had to try
to save Len's bait, which was hung on bottom. I tried to maneuver the boat to free it but
we ended up breaking it off. So much for any more fishing after we hopefully boated my
fish.
I slowly worked the fish toward the boat from the deep water where it ran after the
beach routine did not work. I knew the fish was big, and I had my hopes up for at least
the upper forties and maybe, if the Gods were smiling, a fifty pounder. When the fish
broke water about fifty feet behind the boat and then sounded again, its tail came
completely out of the water. It looked like a broom! I new then it was really big. I told
Len to get the big gaff and be ready. I finally worked the fish to the side of the boat,
and we were both astounded at the size of the fish. I knew immediately it was at least
fifty pounds. Len, having always seen me lip gaffing bass so they could be released and
being used to lip gaffing big tarpon he fishes down south, naturally went to lip gaff the
fish in its huge gaping mouth. He managed to get hold of a good bit of tissue and started
to haul the fish over the side. As all of the weight of the fish came to bear on the gaff,
it tore free and the fish fell back into the water. I had the instant realization that the
fish would probably break off. Experience paid off as I immediately dropped the tip of the
rod deep into the water to give me the split second required to disengage the drag and
thumb the spool. This allowed a controlled drop-back and prevented the 25 pound test Ande
line from snapping, which it would have if it had come taut. I once again slowly worked
the fish to the boat, and this time we successfully gaffed and boated the fish.
When we laid the fish on the deck next to the 38 pounder we had caught earlier, it
dwarfed that fish. I tried my fifty pound scale, and it smacked hard against the bottom.
Len and I were both overjoyed. We had put together the finest bass fishing day of both our
lives. We had more than achieved our goals for the day and for the season, despite the
earlier adversities of the day. We had hung in there and kept looking, trying on our own,
and being successful and rewarded all day for out efforts. We had caught our trophy fish,
used up all of our bait and run out of energy doing it. It was a great adventure shared
between good friends. It doesn't get any better!
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1991
Published in "The Fisherman" 1991
Table of Contents
"BUCKTAIL LURES --- RIGGING AND JIGGING"
For every serious fisherperson, another story about the bucktail lure must also exist.
There have been books and articles too numerous to count written about the subject. I have
read many myself, some good and some bad, but in every one that I can remember, there was
always something new to be offered. Over the years, I have incorporated these little
tricks and variations with my own hard earned experience. This has allowed me to develop a
system and technique that works well for me in the areas that I fish.
The bucktail is a very basic lure, in itself just a few hairs tied to a leadhead jig.
It will no doubt catch a bluefish if thrown into a school in a feeding frenzy, but, it
will do much more than that if some subtle but important variations are considered. Depth
of water, current conditions, target species and their diet should all be considered in
organizing a system and technique that will work the best at a given time in a given area.
Probably the most important consideration in fishing a bucktail is the fact that the
lure has no built in action. It will either drag across the bottom or run a straight line
if retrieved. If fished this way it will catch fish but success will improve
astronomically if some sort of action is added by the angler. This translates into work
and constant attention to technique, fishing a bucktail is not laid back lazy fishing.
What is most amazing about a bucktail is its versatility. It will catch almost any game
fish. I have used it successfully in catching everything from white perch in tidal streams
to tuna in bluewater. In these instances, the only difference was the size of the lure and
a different style of retrieve. I most commonly use the bucktail to catch weakfish, fluke,
bass and bluefish.
In choosing the correct size bucktail to use, three considerations must be taken into
account: the size of the target fish, the depth of water and the amount of current. I have
found bucktails to be most effective when worked on or very near the bottom as most fish
are generally bottom feeders. An exception to this rule would be bluefish, but even they
will move to the bottom to feed. The rule of thumb to apply is simple: use the lightest,
smallest bucktail possible that will still allow the lure to remain on or very near the
bottom. With deeper water and swift current, larger weight versions must be used. This
becomes a limiting factor if the target specie is small. The size of the bucktail that
must be used may just be too large to attract the fish you are looking to catch. Something
to think about here would be line size. Lighter, small diameter line will not require as
much weight as it has less of a drag coefficient in passing through the moving water. I
will rarely use greater than 15 lb. test line in working bucktails and often use lighter
line of 10 lb. or 12 lb. test. Bucktail head weights come in a great variety of sizes from
1/16 ounce to 6 ounce but most commonly used for inshore saltwater fishing are those from
1/4 ounce to 1 1/2 ounce.
Head shape can vary greatly, ball, bullet, flat, tapered, "smiling bill"
etc.. I usually stick with the "smiling bill" or ball design. I must say that I
have not really seen a great difference in productivity regarding head design other than
when fishing a hard current, a more streamlined head such as the bullet design, will hold
bottom more effectively.
For fluke, smaller is better and I have most success with 1/4 ounce to 3/4 ounce
bucktails. This is not saying that a large fluke of five pounds or more wouldn't take a 2
ounce bucktail but it would also ingest a 1/2 ounce version. It is more likely that a
large fish will attack a smaller lure than a small fish attack a large lure. In addition,
there are more small fish that fit in a frying pan just perfectly! This is something to
consider in all bucktail fishing.
Bluefish and weakfish tend to run in schools with most fish all of similar size. For
either specie when under four pounds, I prefer bucktails of 1/2 ounce to 3/4 ounce. When
the larger specimens of 5 to 15 pounds are around, I then switch to 1 to 1 1/2 ounce
weights.
Bass can be a great challenge in that their size can vary greatly from little schoolies
of 2 to 3 lbs. up to cows of 40 lbs. or more. I would bet that most bucktail caught bass
would average between 5 and 15 lbs. therefore I usually start out with a 1 1/2 ounce
bucktail and move up or down in weight depending upon my success or the size of any fish
that I might catch.
In my opinion, the most critical factor in being successful with a bucktail is the
presentation or action imparted by the angler. This is such a crucial factor that it can
account for anything from getting skunked to enjoying a fishing bonanza. I have seen two
individuals fishing the same bucktail on the same outfit on the same boat, each with
totally opposite results. The difference was all in the action imparted to the lure.
My favorite method for fishing the bucktail is to bounce the lure with a twitch of the
wrist, letting the lure fall back to the bottom until the "bump" signals that it
has come to rest. This can be done by simply working the rod without retrieving line when
there is a good drift, or taking a couple of cranks in between lifts when stationary or
when tidal movement is very slow. I continue the process varying the speed and height of
the lift and time on the bottom. I will try different combinations for short intervals of
time. For example, a sharp lift of one foot, a slow drop back and one second at rest on
the bottom. I will repeat this motion for ten or fifteen cycles. I might then alter the
pattern to slow lift of one foot, followed by the same slow drop back and one second of
rest on the bottom. I always vary only one factor at a time so that when I get a strike, I
will know which aspect of the action in my retrieve is the most enticing. I may therefore
be able to accentuate this action, knowing exactly what it is. In general, the most
productive retrieve I have utilized is the fast, short twitch followed by a slow
controlled drop-back with a one half to full one second rest on the bottom.
As you might guess from this discussion, the manner in which the lure is worked on the
retrieve is what catches the fish. Each different specie of fish and set of conditions
will generally require a slight variation in the action to be most productive. It is most
important to experiment in order to find the most enticing action and then to duplicate
that exact action on every cast and retrieve. Invariably the strike will come at the end
of the drop back or as the lure sits on the bottom. The angler must be ready to set the
hook with a sharp lift as soon as the strike is felt. An artificial lure will be spit out
as quickly as it was hit and therefore speed is of the essence. For this reason, the slow
controlled drop-back is most productive. In lowering the tip of the rod slowly, no slack
is produced in the line and even the slightest strike will be felt. In addition, it will
allow the "bump" of the jig on the bottom to be felt and prevent any delay in
setting the hook.
Graphite rods with their great sensitivity and strength are exceptional for fishing
bucktails. My favorites are the Penn Power Stick bait-casting outfits matched to the size
of the lure. For 3/4 ounce or less I use the PBC-60M rod with Penn 1000 or Penn 920 reel
and 10 lb. test Ande line. For 1 ounce and heavier lures I use the Penn PPG-4971 rod with
Penn 930 reel and 15 lb. Ande line. I keep all my bucktail hooks needle sharp so as to
insure deep penetration and firm hook setting.
As you can tell, conventional revolving spool reels are my favorite for this type of
fishing. However, when jigging also requires a fast retrieve, I will shift to spinning
gear which generally has a faster retrieve ratio. My favorite for this situation for all
lures up to 1 1/2 ounce is the Penn PSG-4871 rod with 4400 SS reel spooled with 10 lb.
test Ande "Classic" line which is very soft and well suited to spinning gear.
Another consideration when using bucktails is line twist that is produced by the
jigging action. In working the lure as I have described, occasionally the bucktail will
make a complete roll of 360 degrees. This will put a turn in your line and eventually
produce problems with the line twisting around the tip of the rod and casting
difficulties. To prevent this from happening, I pre-rig all my bucktails with a small
barrel swivel at the end of a short trace of leader material that is appropriate to the
size of the lure. I generally use about one foot of 20 lb. test mono and a barrel swivel
rated at 50 to 75 lb. test. To prevent "chopoffs" when bluefish are my primary
target, I substitute plastic coated multi-strand wire as my leader material.
The actual appearance of the bucktail in addition to the way it is worked is what
determines its overall effectiveness. Considerations in this regard would include jig
color, length of hair and whether or not it is "tipped off" with some kind of
additional attractant.
Most bucktails commercially produced are of fairly good quality. When purchasing
bucktails, the most important consideration in addition to color or head shape, is quality
construction. Make sure the winding that holds the hair in place is well tied and coated
to prevent abrasion damage and that the hook is of good quality. A visual inspection to
details will usually suffice but actual use will be the true test of quality. I have
recently been using the "Fin Strike" bucktail and it has proven to be excellent
in both quality and effectiveness.
The most common bucktail colors available are white, red/white and yellow. I use white
most often with excellent results. Yellow has been very productive for me in years when
blowfish are abundant. I believe the yellow bucktail can be taken for a small blowfish on
the run, and many gamefish will feed upon these tasty morsels. A good habit to get in to
is to check the stomach contents of any fish that are kept and cleaned. It will allow you
to determine what they are feeding upon and therefore you can "match the hatch"
the next time out. This past year, bright green bucktails appeared in the tackle shops. I
gave them a try and they have worked well. I have had good catches of small weakfish and
fluke using the bright green version in 1/2 ounce size.
"Tipping off" the bucktail jig with a piece of squid, pork rind or even a
small jelly worm, greatly enhances its effectiveness. I find the pork rind to be the most
convenient since it does not have to be maintained as does fresh bait, is always available
in my tackle box, and is so tough that one piece will last all day. I always trim the size
of the pork rind to match the size of the bucktail. In addition, I split the tail to give
it a greater fluttering action. Most varieties of pork rinds available in tackle shops
will not be the exact size or shape for your needs but a sharp knife will produce just
what is required. For this reason I purchase the largest rinds, the "striper
/muskie" strips, and cut them down to size. Remember to punch a hook hole in the
leading end with the tip of the knife.
One last little trick worth mentioning concerns short hitting fish. On a number of
occasions for reasons I have yet to figure out, the fish seem to not really mouth the lure
firmly when they strike. The result is many hits but few hookups. When this occurs I have
improved my results by trimming back the hairs on the lure. I will thin out the hair by
cutting some away right up front where they are tied to the lead head and additionally cut
and taper the ends of the hair so they end right at the bend in the hook. This effectively
moves the hook back into the strike zone of these short hitting fish and will produce more
hookups.
Hopefully you will find more good than bad in what I have written regarding the
bucktail. At least it may provide some food for thought and give you something to add to
your bag of tricks.
Good Fishing
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1991
Published in "The Fisherman" 1991
Table of Contents
"DID
YOU EVER CHUM A POLLOCK?"
Years ago, I had the honor and privilege to fish with Capt. Charles Fischett on his
boat the Three Daughters. My father and he were good friends and fishing buddies and I
would often join in with the crew for some memorable fishing experiences.
What a crew it was, my father Al Lorenzetti Sr., Larry Christie, Bill Koehler, Paul
Percodani, Arty Bethel and many others on various occasions. A welcomed guest on many
outings was the retired but most revered old timer of salt water angling in the northeast,
Capt. Herb Fogarty, captain of the Bojean.
Back in the late sixties and early seventies, it was this captain and crew that taught
me much of what I know about fishing, especially wreck fishing.
In those days, wreck fishing was restricted to only those individuals who were tried
and true seamen. Loran existed, but only in its most crude form utilizing "A
band" and manually operated AP-9 receivers. On the best of days, the closest fix one
might hope for was perhaps one quarter of a mile. Needless to say, good navigation,
extensive search patterns, knowledge of bottom contours and a little luck were required to
finally locate and set up on a wreck, especially those far offshore. The rewards for this
effort however, were fantastic!
Because of the difficulty in locating such wrecks, when finally located, they were
essentially virgin, and loaded with fish. On many occasions we quit fishing when our arms
were tired or we simply said we have enough fish, usually cod and pollock.
Of all the types of fish we caught on the wrecks, pollack were the most fun. A cod is a
bulldog and really fine table fare but nothing can compare to the first run of a pollock
caught in deep water. Their nickname is "Boston Blue" due to a similarity in how
they fight and the methods used to catch them. Can you imagine doing battle with a thirty
to forty pound bluefish! The initial hit and run is awesome, it can make you weak in the
knees as it often did to me.
Pollock respond well to deep jigging above the superstructure of the wreck, or to baits
suspended above the feeding zone of the cod and bait stealing bergalls. Do not hesitate to
dangle a baited hook ten to twenty feet above the bottom as it will usually be picked up
by a roving pollock.
The best part of finding a wreck with a good population of pollock residing nearby is
the possibility of chumming the school right up to the back of the boat. Pollock will
respond to a chum line of ground bunker just as well as a school of bluefish.
In order to pull the pollock off the wreck with the chum, it is necessary to position
the boat up-current from the wreck. If you are anchored directly above the wreck as is
usual for cod fishing, it will require a repositioning of the anchor. The goal is to have
the chum settle to the wreck so that the pollock have a trail to follow to the boat. This
process usually will take about one half hour in order to attract the fish to the boat, if
they are going to respond to the offering. If there is not a response after a reasonable
time, the anchor line can simply be paid out to let the boat resettle above or at the edge
of the wreck to resume codfishing.
The fishing technique utilized for this type of fishing would be similar to chumming
bluefish except the wire leaders can be done away with as pollock are essentially
toothless. Pollock are however somewhat more line-shy and definitely more picky about what
they will accept as a hook bait. I am convinced however that a pollack cannot pass on a
whole baby squid. I suggest the kind sold in the five pound boxes in the supermarket,
usually labeled as California calamari. Light tackle is sporting and makes dropping back
the bait into the chum slick more manageable. A Penn "Squidder" or possibly the
new 310 GTi reel on a matching rod like the Penn Power Stick PC-3601L would be ideal.
Conventional revolving spool reels are best suited for this type of fishing. A 5/0 to 7/0
short shank hook tied directly to the line with a clinch or palomar knot is most
convenient. Perhaps a small rubber core sinker might be required to keep the bait
uniformly descending with the chum.
The most successful approach is to slowly let the bait drift back with the current. If
the fish are coming to the boat, the first hit may occur at a fairly good distance back,
possibly 100-150 feet or even more. Hopefully the fish will then move much closer to the
boat attracted by the chum and will probably settle in about fifty feet back. If they do,
this will be the ultimate pollock catching experience. Do not be afraid to feed out a lot
of line in trying to find the first fish. Eventually your line should end up near the
wreck and you may be able to hook up with cod or pollock right from the wreck itself. On
most occasions when this has happened, the combination of close proximity to the wreckage,
and lots of stretch in the line results in fish getting into the wreck and breaking off.
On some occasions it did seem however, that when a fish was pulled from the wreck, the
rest of the school followed the hooked fish to the boat. It is a worthwhile policy to let
out a good piece of line in trying to get things going.
The only disadvantage in attempting this type of fishing these days is the overfished
condition of many of the wrecks. Because of this, those wrecks that lie farther offshore
will be better choices as they are fished less. Pollock themselves tend to favor fairly
deep water. I would recommend wrecks such as the Virginia, Bidivend, West wreck, or the
Texas Tower or others in the 150-200 foot range.
Early spring, around April and into May has usually been the best time of year but they
can be caught at anytime on those wrecks in the deeper water.
As is the case with most fishing experiences, a little extra effort and knowledge goes
a long way. Having to make an anchor adjustment when settled on a deep wreck is not what I
would call fun, but if you don't give it a try, you may miss one of the best fishing
experiences of your life!
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1990
Table of Contents
"CHUNKING TUNA AT THE BACARDI"
"HOW GOOD IS GOOD"
The hottest news on the fishing scene for the past few years has been the development
of a tuna fishery employing "stand up tackle" and "chunking"
techniques. "Chunking" simply involves the use of whole or sectioned,
"chunked" baitfish to produce a chum line to attract the desired gamefish. In
the case of tuna, it has attracted a lot of attention because it offers several distinct
advantages over trolling which had previously been the method of choice for most
sportfishermen.
"Chunking" is essentially still fishing, used while drifting or most often at
anchor. As such, it saves wear and tear on the boat's machinery. The cost of fuel is also
greatly reduced, usually more than offsetting the cost of chunking bait. I personally find
this type of fishing very relaxing and enjoyable compared to trolling. A long day of
trolling while listening to the roar of the motors and bouncing through the waves is not
my idea of having fun especially when the fishing is slow. This "chunking"
method, besides proving to be very effective, has allowed the party boat fleet and their
loyal customers an opportunity to partake of some very exciting big game fishing, as
trolling was simply out of the question for these type of boats. As a result, many new
anglers who previously could not afford to own and operate a large sportfishing boat, now
have an opportunity to enjoy this type of fishing. This has been a boon to the
manufacturers of "stand up" fishing tackle and other related gear which is well
suited for this type of fishing. It has brought a lot of activity to the industry and
attracted the attention of a much larger segment of sportsmen and sportswomen.
As I write, the 1990 season is just about ended. In fact, the quota for school and
medium bluefins has been filled and only giant bluefins and other species may still be
taken. With winter winds already starting to blow, the end is surely not far away. In
assessing the past season one would have to say it was a good one. The tuna settled in
around the wreck of the Bacardi and around the forty fathom curve southeast of Shinnecock
Inlet and the fishing was excellent right into October. "Chunking" was at it's
best, and many people enjoyed themselves immensely in tangling with these great gamefish.
Although fishing was good to excellent in the deep offshore areas, it was disappointing
that no real inshore fishery in the 20-40 mile range ever developed. Were all the fish
being held at the Bacardi and Forty Fathoms by the huge fleet of chunkers and draggers
that worked these areas? Was it because the inshore waters are polluted? Was it because
the number of fish have been depleted and just a matter of not enough to go around? No one
knows the answers for sure, but regardless of what they are, it was a disappointment for
the small boat owner that could not safely make the long run to these areas. This all
brings me to the heart of the matter, over-fishing and abuse of the fish stocks.
The greatest disappointment of the season was the appearance once again of a small
group of unsporting, greedy, destructive individuals. Rather than enjoy lots of action and
releasing fish while keeping a reasonable amount of the larger fish, these individuals
proceeded to keep every fish that could be brought aboard. What amazed me is that they
boasted about the fact that they caught so many fish and also found some publication to
print and therefore broadcast their great "success". The old ignorant attitude
that bringing in the most fish makes one a great fisherman, and that they should command
the respect of the rest of the sportfishing community, is still present amongst us. In
reality, their actions driven by their "macho" attitude and greed for a fast
buck in selling the fish to "foreigners" has shown the true colors of these
individuals. They are not sportfishermen nor are they even good fishermen. They are in a
very distinct group all to themselves and yet damaging to the entire fishing community.
They are selfish, ignorant abusers!
As you can probably sense, I am not happy about this situation. When I sit back and
think about the situation, I remember how it has always happened in the past. A few
misguided, shortsighted selfish individuals both in the sportfishing and commercial
sectors have, in large part, led to the destruction of an entire fishery. It occurred with
the weakfish, swordfish, striped bass and bluefin and appears to be heading that way for
several other species, yellowfin and bluefish included.
It seems that only legislated regulations may save the fish populations. Regulations
have seemed to help in a number of situations. A noteworthy example is the recent success
with striped bass conservation measures. However, many management acts are shortsighted or
not quite as effective as they were planned to be. As an example, the inadequacy of the
Magnuson Act in protecting tuna.
I believe that conservation efforts on the part of organizations like the New York
Sportfishing Federation are beginning to take hold. They have been successful in having
meaningful legislation approved. However, it is still the responsibility of the individual
to get directly involved in trying to protect this valuable resource.
The greatest threat to the future of sportfishing lies in maintaining the quality of
the environment, but also important is the reduction in the total amount of fish taken, so
as to maintain a healthy spawning population. In this regard, I believe it is an
individual's responsibility to speak up when you see someone breaking the law and keeping
an excessive number of fish or undersize fish. Tell them directly to their face that you
do not approve or that you will report them.
Keep on top of proposed legislation, especially with regard to commercial fishing
regulations. Commercial fishing has the potential with modern equipment and techniques, to
deplete an entire fishery in a very short time. The use of non selective "dirty"
gear such as haul-seines, gillnets and longlines, can be very damaging to a fish
population.
Everyone should get personally involved. A good place to begin would be to let your
legislators know how you feel regarding the attempt by a small group of commercial
fishermen to reopen a full scale commercial fishery for striped bass. Remember how
plentiful they once were? Remember how scarce they became? Most of all, remember how they
came back when commercial fishing was stopped and only a reasonable number were allowed to
be caught by sportfishermen? I remember!
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1990
Table of Contents
DFI: A NEW REVOLUTION IN OUTBOARD ENGINE TECHNOLOGY
Direct Fuel Injection or DFI is now at the marketplace. Spurred on by Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA) regulations governing exhaust emissions, Mercury Marine has
produced a clean burning, fuel efficient outboard engine design.
Present outboard engines are almost all two-stroke in design. These engines run on a
mixture of gas and oil that is directed into the cylinders by a carburetor or fuel
injectors. The problem with this type of system is that some of the fuel and oil mix is
not completely burned. This is necessary as this unburned residue is what lubricates the
moving parts of the engine. The problem that exists however is that some of this residue
escapes with the exhaust gases and enters the water in which the engine is running. Visual
proof of this is evident in the form of a blue cloud of smoke that always is produced by
outboards, especially when they are running at slow speed or at idle. These exhaust gases
pollute our environment.
The EPA was keenly aware of this problem. Tough environmental and exhaust emission
regulations were enacted which begin to take effect in 1998 and gradually increase in
restrictions and standards through 2006. Mercury Marine has taken a giant step to not only
meet these tough new standards but to aggressively go beyond with this new technology.
Together with Australia’s Orbital Engine Corporation, Mercury Marine has developed
a completely new line of DFI engines marketed under the trade name of OptiMax. These new
engines currently meet and surpass the EPA standards for 2006. They offer exceptional
performance and fuel economy in addition to being environmentally friendly.
This new design has been thoroughly tested for several years and commercially proven
last season with introduction of their 3.0 liter V-6 DFI 200 horsepower outboard.
My statement, "exceptional performance and fuel economy" is really
understated. One can expect a savings of 80-percent less fuel burned at low speeds and
40-percent less at cruising speed. In addition there is virtually no smoke produced at any
speed including at idle. The potential for fuel savings in the course of a season are
enormous.
How can this all be possible? Not without an incredible amount of research and
development. In essence, an entirely new system was developed. I will briefly summarize
what makes it work so well.
The Mercury DFI system still utilizes the mechanically efficient two-stroke design. A
compressor and fuel injector for each cylinder directs a high pressure fuel/air mixture
into the combustion chamber. The heart of this system is a ECM (electronic control module)
which monitors all the action, adjusting all vital engine functions and warning systems.
Because fuel is precisely measured first, then injected as desired, maximum efficiency
(99.9 percent of the fuel charge is burned) is achieved. An electronic multipoint
lubrication system keeps everything running smoothly by monitoring and delivering oil
directly to the cylinders for precise lubrication. This reduces oil consumption and
exhaust emissions therefore NO SMOKE!
After successfully introducing this new concept in 1996, Mercury has fine tuned the
product, adding to the engine’s performance, fuel efficiency and durability. No test
is tougher than that given a product by the average consumer. Mercury has more than met
the challenge in all respects.
The 1998 OptiMax product line (available in July 1997) will include models in 135 and
150 horsepower (2.5 liter block) and 200 and 225 horsepower (3.0 liter block) with
counter-rotation available for all models.
Mercury Marine is dedicated to this technology and to a clean environment. In the near
future, all models of 75 horsepower and higher will utilize DFI technology while all
engines below 75 horsepower will be four-stroke in design.
This innovation is one that must be considered by all boaters using outboard engines.
The next time you repower, OptiMax is the way to go!
For more information on Mercury’s product line and OptiMax engines contact Mercury
Marine at 1-800-MERCURY or visit their web site at <http://www.mercurymarine.com>.
Good Fishing and Boating,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
Web Site: <http://www.skimmeroutdoors.com>
Ó Al Lorenzetti 1997
Published in "The Fire Island Express" 1997
Table of Contents
FISHING
THE GREAT SOUTH BAY
A FISHING PRIMER
The Great South Bay is a large and very rich environment. To "fish the bay"
is a tremendous understatement since covering all its diverse areas and resident fish
populations could probably take more than the average lifetime. Many newcomers to the
sport of fishing and even quite a few that have been at it for a while, take the
"whole bay" or "any specie" approach. This tactic, I have found, is
not very productive nor rewarding. It mostly produces frustration and probably very few
fish to show for the effort.
The problem in this approach is a lack of focus. Fish are not overly abundant anywhere
these days and fish have never been accused of being stupid. By this I mean that a
scattergun tactic of trying to catch any kind of fish, in any spot that seems to be
convenient, just will not work.
In order to have some success in fishing this great bay, one must concentrate his
efforts and focus upon one target specie at a time. To be more diverse than this will come
later, with more experience. Concentrating upon one specie means to learn whatever it
requires to outsmart your quarry. What I am basically saying is that education will bring
you success in fishing as it will in all life's other pursuits.
What are the things that should be learned in order to be successful? The following is
a list of what I believe to be basic knowledge required for success:
1. Some understanding of the life history, feeding habits and basic behavior of the
fish you will pursue.
2. Bottom configuration of the bay, including location of deep channels and underwater
obstructions.
3. Tidal flow, including the relationship between high and low tide and current changes
for the area you will fish.
4. Basic fishing tackle requirements best suited for the fishing you will do. Things
such as what rod, reel, line and terminal tackle configurations would be appropriate.
5. Bait and/or lures that are most productive for your target fish and whether or not
they are easily available.
To expect success on a regular basis without this basic knowledge is to invite
disappointment. Maybe you are looking at my list and thinking that you'll never have the
time to learn all of this. That is a possibility. However, it will really not take that
long to gain a fair understanding of the basics. A trip to the library and a look at
McClane's fishing encyclopedia will provide you with a good natural history background of
any of the fish that frequent the Great South Bay. This is a great source book for all
kinds of fishing information and a great starting point.
A trip to a local tackle store might be the source of everything else you need to know.
I suggest you try a tackle shop and not a tackle supermarket. The smaller shop owner or
worker will generally have greater knowledge to share with you and more time to do so.
Pick a time of day or evening when business is slow so that you do not interfere with them
doing business. Purchase your needs from the same store as much as possible. This will be
greatly appreciated and much information will be gladly shared with a regular customer.
Information about local tide and current conditions, bait, lures, tackle and probably a
chart of the bay will probably be readily available.
Many tackle shops are affiliated with local fishing clubs which are another great
source of fishing information. Many clubs offer fishing schools which you might attend to
learn more about all types of fishing.
A number of organizations such as the New York Sportfishing Federation, offer seminars
and lectures related to fishing our local waters. In fact, at this years Federation
Fishing Forum, I will be lecturing on basic techinques and strategies for fishing the
Great South Bay. Attending events such as these provides access to a wealth of information
which will all be helpful in making your fishing experience more rewarding.
With a fair background of knowledge such a I have described, you will have the ability
to concentrate your efforts in a most productive way. You will be able to make a fishing
plan that will probably incorporate the best area, time, tide, bait and tackle suited to
the fish you want to catch. With this type of planning and preparation, your chances of
success will be great. It may not be enough to catch a lot of fish every day as I can well
attest to, but it will provide you with the edge needed to enjoy catching your share!
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1991
Table of Contents
OFFSHORE
FLUKE --- BOTTOM STRUCTURE IS THE KEY!
In late summer and early fall, fluke fishing generally improves as these
predatory fish begin to feed with enthusiasm, preparing for their migration to the
continental shelf. The average fisherman is generally satisfied with the results of his
efforts during this time. Most days catches are usually sufficient, producing a meal and
maybe a little more for the freezer. What the average fluke fisherman doesn't realize
however, is that many of the bigger trophy fluke, in the four to ten pound range, have
already left the shallow bays and inlets to head offshore, feeding as they go.
It is my opinion that these larger fish begin their migratory run, drawn by their
natural instincts. Their natural instinct to feed however, is stronger at the beginning of
this migration, then is their drive to move on to deeper water.
As these fish move out onto the mostly sandy bottom of the Atlantic, heading for the
edges of the canyons where they will over-winter, they must occasionally move past
productive feeding areas. Wrecks, reefs, rockpiles, or bottom strewn with shell and
gravel, are like oases in the middle of the Sahara desert. They attract and hold numerous
baitfish by providing an anchoring surface for the microscopic and macroscopic life that
the baitfish consume, the beginning of the food chain.
When fluke encounter these areas they make a stop to fill their gut before moving on to
the depths. As a result, these areas hold and concentrate enough fluke to make the fishing
very worthwhile, and often producing a good number of bragging size doormats.
In order to partake of this type of fishing, one must first know the whereabouts of
these productive bottom structures. My recommendation is to begin with one of the many
artificial reefs which have been constructed within easy reach of many of the coastal
inlets. These reefs are generally in the 50 ft. to 75 ft. depth range which is ideal. In
addition, these reefs are sometimes marked by buoys and/or have published loran
coordinates of their position. These reefs provide a rather large productive and fishable
area since they are usually built from a collection of smaller masses of material that
tend to scatter when deposited, and become at least partially covered with sand. This is
better than a single large wreck which actually will have much less productive habitat
around it. In addition, large wrecks have a tendency to devour much terminal tackle.
In order to be successful with some degree of consistency, two pieces of electronics
are an absolute must, a loran and preferably a video recorder. The loran is essential in
order to find the generalized fishing area at the onset of the trip, but its usefulness
does not end there. When fish are hopefully caught, a quick notation of the specific
coordinates will allow one to be able to make repeated drifts over the same spot where
most likely more fish can be caught. An alternative to working with the loran would be to
drop a marker buoy when a fish is caught and then, figuring wind and tide, make repeated
drifts passing over or near the marked area.
The most productive area around bottom debris extends outward to a limit of about fifty
feet. The ideal situation would be to make a drift beginning at the immediate side of the
structure and then moving along its perimeter or away from it. Maneuvering into this
position can be quite difficult without the aid of a good quality recorder. When fishing
inshore areas, landmarks can be used for ranges and triangulation, but offshore, this
convenience is not usually available. In my opinion, video recorders provide the best
picture, literally. They can clearly show even a fine layer of rubble that surrounds most
pieces of wreckage. A high quality paper recorder is also suitable and provides a
permanent record of the piece you are working for future reference. I personally have both
pieces of gear and use them both, but still would prefer the color video if I had to
choose one. I have still to be shown a LCD recorder that can even come close to what I
would consider sufficient for the task.
In preparing to fish, once in the general area, I run the boat in a north-south or
east-west grid and drop marker buoys directly on the high pieces of bottom structure. I
use two liter plastic soda bottles with an appropriate length of 80 lb. dacron line and a
sash weight as markers. I then settle the boat near the buoys to determine the direction
of drift. The boat is then positioned so that it will drift alongside or better, between
the marker buoys but not directly over the structure. I continually watch the recorder so
that in the event that the boat does drift over a large piece of wreckage, the fishing
lines can be raised or pulled in before they become fouled in the debris. The recorder can
also tell visually, when to lower the lines so that the baits will drop in right next to
the structure.
Once an area has been worked over with no results, I will move on to one of the other
spots that have been marked or hopefully continue the drift on to another area. It is not
unusual for the fish to be concentrated at only one spot, therefore do not give up without
trying at least several different spots.
Another alternative to marking bottom structure with buoys, that should be considered,
especially if you fish the same area repeatedly, is to construct your own loran chart.
Using a piece of graph paper and assigning each vertical and horizontal line some
increment of the two lines of position you use on your loran, bottom structure positions
can be charted for the general area. Once the positions are all placed on the grid, a
simple visual inspection of the arrangement of the bottom pieces will make it a simple
task to plan the path of drift for the most promising areas.
Tackle, especially terminal tackle, is worth some consideration. With deep water and
currents, more lead than is common to fluke fishing will have to be used, and therefore
slightly heavier rods and reels are more suitable. My choice of outfit is a Penn 320 GTi
or 25 GLS, spooled with 25 lb. test Ande line on a Penn PC-3701L Power Stick rod. This
outfit is light and easy to hold, but strong enough to handle the extra weight and
possibly a large fish.
My terminal tackle is a basic modification of the typical fluke rig. It incorporates a
three-way swivel to which is attached the fishing line, the hook and the sinker. I use pre
snelled packaged hooks, preferring the English wide gap style of 3/0 to 5/0 size. When I
attach the sinker, I position it allowing the hook to ride about one foot above the
bottom. I attach it with a weaker piece of monofilament than is used for the fishing line.
This arrangement keeps the hook above most of the bottom debris, and should the sinker
snag, the lighter line attaching it will part before the main line, thus saving tackle and
perhaps even a fish. I will often also utilize a high hook, approximately two feet above
the swivel and on a shorter leader. Baited with a strip of squid, a killie or a spearing,
this often catches some quality size humpback seabass that also are found around the
wreckage.
Since there is a good possibility to attract larger fish, larger bait is also
appropriate. My preferred bait is a live snapper or one freshly dead. If not available and
in the spirit of bluefish conservation, whole and preferably fresh smelts from the local
fish market work very well as do large killies. A strip of squid added as an attraction
serves well but is not absolutely necessary. Sometimes I have felt that the addition of
the squid strip actually hindered the action. Another excellent bait is a split tailed
strip of fluke belly. I generally sacrifice the first keeper to prepare belly strips and
always give them a try.
This type of fluke fishing is more of a challenge than the laid back summer time bay
variety, but, the rewards can be great. It is a real pleasure to fish an area with almost
no boats, wakes or other craziness, typical of a bay fishing excursion, and to catch a
bucket full of some real bragging size, good eating fluke. Give it a try, I'm sure you
will like it!
Good Fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1995
Published in "The Fisherman" 1995
Table of Contents
BUNKER
DUNKING SWIVEL RIG UPDATE
In October of 1990, an article that I had written appeared in this publication. In that
article titled "Terminal Livelining", I discussed a method for rigging a live
bunker using a "Duolock" double locking snap swivel. The purpose of this rig is
to avoid the use of treble hooks that often kill fish that are to be released.
Since the time of that writing, I have continued to experiment with this terminal
tackle arrangement. I now, more than ever, believe that it is the best possible
combination in terms of both conservation and fishing effectiveness. I have however made
some subtle but important changes in the rig which I felt should be passed along at this
time.
The first of these changes relates to the orientation of the hook and attachment of the
swivel to the hook to achieve this orientation. Due to the fact that the swivel runs
through the eye of the hook, it will maintain the attitude of the hook in either the point
up or point down position. It is very important that the hook be point up as this will
prevent the rig from fouling in bottom debris. The point up position also seems to produce
more solid hookups in the upper lip of the fish. To achieve this positioning of the hook,
the swivel must be inserted into the bunker in one specific direction, however this
presents another problem. It is much easier to insert the swivel going from the top of the
head, down and out the mouth than it is going the opposite way. In order to satisfy both
of these needs, the swivel must originally be attached to the hook in the proper way. As
illustrated in the accompanying photographs, the Duolock swivel is opened at both ends,
then the large loop side is passed through the eye of the hook from the back of the hook
toward the point. It is then run all the way through so that the eye of the hook is in the
small loop of the swivel where it will be held in position by the small side swivel lock.
Now the large loop side of the swivel can be passed through the bait from the top of the
head, down and out through the mouth. This will leave the hook in the point up position as
illustrated.
The second change that I have incorporated is related to the place of attachment of the
swivel in the head of the bunker. Previously I had recommended hooking through the
nostrils or the upper front part of the mouth. I have discovered through use that in many
cases, a hard hitting fish would tear the bunker off the rig before the hook could be set
by the angler. I dissected a bunker and discovered that there is a thick ridge of
cartilage tissue just behind the nostrils but in front of the eyes. The swivel must be
inserted through or behind this tough tissue. I use my fishing hook which is usually a 7/0
Gamakatsu short shank O’Shaugnessy style, or an ice pick, to punch a hole through the
roof of the mouth at a point even with the front of the eye sockets. Using the largest
size Duolock swivel of 1 9/16 inch, I run it through this hole from the top of the head
and out the mouth. The swivel is long enough to be snapped closed outside the mouth. I
have found this attachment to be strong enough to withstand the most savage attack by any
bass or bluefish.
A reminder once again, this rig is not sanctioned by the IGFA for setting world records
because of the free swinging hook. It is however a real fish catcher that usually results
in lip hooked fish that can easily and quickly be released. Occasionally fish will be
hooked in the throat but the single hook can be removed with a long handled hook
disgorger. If it is deeply gut hooked which is very rare with this rig, the leader should
be cut leaving the hook to rust out which it does very quickly in a fish digestive system.
A treble hook in the throat or gut will tear up or block the digestive path and result in
certain death.
I have developed tremendous confidence in this rig. I do not feel that I catch any
fewer fish because of it, in fact, I feel that my catch has improved. My only hope is that
more people will begin using it in the interest of fish conservation.
Good fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1991
Published in "The Fisherman" 1991
Table of Contents
TACKLE
TUNE UP - PART 1
Tackle maintenance is a very important part of fishing. It is the one aspect of the
sport however that I have seen neglected most often. A good number of fishing enthusiasts
simply use their equipment until it breaks. I guess they subscribe to "Murphy's
Law", "if it isn't broken don't fix it". I can go along with this theory
when it comes to my lawnmower, if it breaks while I'm mowing my lawn I get the day off and
probably get to go fishing. Fishing tackle for the serious fisherperson however is a
different story, if it breaks it may possibly mean losing the fish of a lifetime.
"Al's Fishing Law" says "when your tackle breaks it is due to the fact that
you finally hooked the monster you have been dreaming about and your tackle wasn't in good
enough condition to handle it".
Most people are conscientious about washing down their rods and reels after use in salt
water, but in many cases that is about as far as it goes. To keep tackle operating
properly and doing what it was designed to do requires more attention than just a wash
job. There are a number of minor maintenance activities that should be performed regularly
during the fishing season. Checking for line chafe, spraying metal parts with light oil
and lubricating moving parts. Quality equipment that has been properly set up prior to the
start of the season should only require this minimal attention. The "off season"
provides the opportunity to attend to major cleaning, repair and fine tuning of tackle.
Major cleaning and repair of tackle should include a complete disassembly of reels with
lubrication and drag washer inspection and/or replacement at least every other season.
Regardless of the amount of use, salt has a way of getting into the internal parts of a
fishing reel and causing damage. Of course reels that are used frequently should be
completely torn down and serviced yearly if not more often. This type of servicing of
sophisticated reels can be quite challenging for the beginner, but for anyone with a
little mechanical ability and some patience, it can be mastered. Rods will rarely require
more than a good cleaning except for replacement of damaged guides. Guide wrapping
involves quite a bit of skill but it can be accomplished by anyone willing to learn the
basic techniques and spend a little time at it. This is exactly the way I got into
building my own custom rods. For many people who lack such skills or those that just lack
the time to do so, the best bet is to have the local tackle repair shop handle the more
involved repairs.
Other than a complete tear down of a reel or the re-wrapping or replacement of a guide,
most other maintenance can be performed by the individual. In addition to general
maintenance, there are a number of things that I call fine tuning of tackle that should be
done during the off season. These are things that not only help the tackle perform better
but also simplify the maintenance process.
In the normal course of events, deficiencies in tackle are noticed or occur while
fishing. A rough or chattering drag or a small abrasion far up on the running line are
common occurrences that require attention before the next fishing trip. This presents a
problem when using matched tackle as is common these days for people that are serious
about their fishing. When returning to the dock, it is difficult if not impossible to
determine exactly which outfit requires attention when two or more are identical. To
simplify this task I use a numbering system for each outfit. I use a label gun to pop out
consecutive numbers for each rod in an identical set. I attach the number labels to the
side plates of each reel. If a problem develops while fishing I just note the number of
the outfit and will know exactly which outfit requires attention when I return to the
dock.
This numbering system is also useful in other ways. I keep a small log/notebook to
record any noteworthy information about each fishing outfit. The date, pound test and
brand of line last spooled on the reel; the date of the last drag washer change or major
service; any oddities about its operation that might require attention are all helpful in
maintaining fishing gear in tip-top condition.
Good Fishing,
Captain Al Lorenzetti
© Captain Al Lorenzetti 1996
Table of Contents
TEN
NEW WAYS (OR UPDATED OLD WAYS) TO CATCH FLUKE
Fluke fishing is the staple for summer fishing around most of Long Island. Almost
everyone new to the sport of saltwater fishing begins with fluke fishing. Most fishing for
these aggressive flat fish takes place during the vacation months of July and August.
However, in early May, these fish move to the inshore waters from the deep waters of the
Continental Shelf where they spend the winter. They remain on the inshore grounds into
October. Some of the finest fluke fishing can be had in those months when few people fish
for this species. Don’t overlook Spring and Fall fishing for fluke.
Fluke are kind of funny looking. They are flat and don’t give the impression of
being an aggressive predatory fish. Do not for one minute let looks deceive! These fish
will chase bait with all the ferocity of a bluefish. Their diet is also essentially the
same as a bluefish with the exception being they feed at the bottom of the water column.
Because of these similarities, fluke can be caught using many of the same lures and baits
that attract bluefish. For years this fact has been overlooked by most anglers. The real
fluke sharpies picked up on this long ago and kept the information to themselves. Recently
some tackle manufacturers began marketing artificial lures specifically for fluke. A few
fishing articles and lecturers have touted the effectiveness of artificials. As a result,
the news is beginning to spread to the public and people are starting to consider trying
new techniques.
Why use artificials to catch fluke when bait will also work? Artificials will actually
catch more fish and bigger fish under certain conditions. If they are worked properly they
present a more realistic and enticing target. They will not be affected by crab attacks as
much as natural bait. Fish hooked on an artificial will fight harder and this adds to the
fun. The downside to fishing artificials for fluke is the need to constantly work the
lure. I don’t mind it at all because of the excitement of the strike and the action
it produces. If your desire is to sit back, sip a drink and watch the rod tip waiting for
a strike then this type of fishing is not for you.
The old "stand-by" squid strip with a spearing or killie will catch fish as
always. For the beginner it is probably the best way to get started. For those who wish to
get the most from their fluke fishing, adding artificials to your tackle arsenal will
improve your catch. Bait still has a place in this fishery. How about considering some new
techniques for fishing with bait? A couple of less well known bait fishing techniques will
work wonders in certain conditions. Try something new and you might be pleasantly
surprised.
I will review 10 strategies utilizing artificials, natural dead bait and live bait.
Before getting to specific strategies, a few basics are in order.
When fishing any artificial lure I always use a short trace of leader material and a
barrel swivel. I prefer one foot of 20 lb. fluorocarbon leader material. It is almost
invisible in the water, adding to the natural appearance of the lure. I tie it to a small
barrel swivel to which the running line from the reel is tied. This swivel will eliminate
line twist that will occur during the course of jigging the lure.
I also have become a proponent of multifilament lines when fishing artificials.
Gel-spun lines are best because normal fishing knots may be used. Their non-stretch
characteristic makes for excellent hook setting power. Their narrow diameter allows the
use of lighter weight lures in fast moving water. These are great advantages when fishing
lead-head or other weighted artificial lures. All hooks must be sharpened to a needle
point and checked constantly during the course of fishing.
When fishing bait it is essential that it be as fresh as possible. Do not buy freezer
burned bait. If possible buy fresh dead bait or catch your own. Live bait, primarily live
killies or snappers, are excellent all the time. I prefer wide gap hooks in 2/0 to 4/0
size for fishing bait. Their design produces an excellent hook-up ratio with fluke and
most often the fish are mouth hooked.
With these basics in mind, let me review some strategies that have worked well for me
over the years and some that are new to the scene.
STRATEGY #1 - THE BUCKTAIL
This is my all-time favorite artificial lure. I prefer white or lime-green colors in ¾
or 1 oz. size. Ball head style is fine but a sharp nosed bullet design will work well in
fast moving water. I trim the bucktail to just behind the hook. I usually fish it
tipped-off with a short strip of pork rind with a split tail. White pork rind or green
seems to work best. I work the bucktail along the bottom with a fairly slow jigging
stroke. I lift the tip of the rod about two feet and slowly let the lure settle back to
the bottom, never letting slack develop in the line. I let it lay on the bottom for a
fraction of a second and then begin the cycle again. The strike will always come on the
drop or as the lure sits on the bottom. I am always prepared to strike the fish
aggressively. Sharp hooks are a must.
STRATEGY #2 - THE "SILVER BULLET"™
This new lure was developed a couple of years ago and has earned a place of distinction
as a very productive artificial. Essentially it is a chrome plated ball with a free
swinging bucktail or feather adorned hook. The ball and hook are available in a number of
sizes to suite fishing needs. I especially like this feature. If I must fish deep water or
fast current I would have to use a large bucktail, the larger bucktails however have hooks
that are too large for fluke. I can get a 3 oz. "Silver-Bullet" with a 2/0 hook
which is perfect for fluke. A 3 oz. bucktail would be manufactured with a 4/0 to 6/0 size
hook, much too large for the average fluke.
When purchasing tackle please be aware of imitations. When a lure becomes popular, it
never fails that some "opportunist" will try to copy the original and take
advantage of the market. Keep in mind that a lot of research goes into the design of the
"original" and copies most often do not work as well. I recommend sticking with
the real thing.
I work the "Silver-Bullet" in much the same way as the bucktail. However, I
have found that this lure will catch fish if it is just dragged along the bottom or simply
worked with a twitching action of the rod, much shorter strokes than with the bucktail.
Just like the bucktail, it will catch any other kind of fish in the neighborhood. Bass
blues and weakfish can’t resist it.
STRATEGY #3 THE "TEASER" RIG
The addition of a bucktail, mylar or feathered "teaser" hook above the
primary lure began with the surf crowd a few years back. This "teaser" is
usually tied on a short leader about a foot above whatever lure, jig or plug is being
used. Fluke fishermen have found that it adds extra attraction to the primary offering. On
some occasions it will out-fish the primary lure. I prefer the simple bucktail variety in
white, black/white or olive/white colors. I use a small three-way swivel or a "Bear
Paw" plastic connector to attach the "teaser" on a one foot leader slightly
more than a foot above my sinker or jig. Some prefer the "teaser" on a long
leader trailing behind a bucktail. This type rig is marketed as the
"Terminator." When the lure is worked along the bottom, the teaser flutters with
an enticing irregular motion above or behind the primary bait or jig. It’s a real
attention-getter. I have caught fluke on the "teaser" which means they will come
off the bottom a good distance if they are teased enough. The only problem I have
had with this rig is catching two fish at the same time. When this happens they fight
against each other and usually one or both are lost. I have also had two good size bass
hooked at the same time and they actually broke the line between the jig and
"teaser." I guess worse things could happen?
STRATEGY #4 "PLASTICS"
Who said plastics were only good for weakfish? Fluke love them. Lead heads with
lime-green grub-tails are deadly on fluke. Other colors are effective as well with white
working best in murky water. Remember the old "Salty Dog" weakfish jig. It
really catches fluke especially in the back-bay areas. Keep the plastics on the small
side. Fluke do not have a large round mouth that can inhale a long rubber offering like
big weakfish can do to a nine inch jellyworm. Three to four inch twister tail grubs on a 1
oz. lead-head jig are just perfect.
STRATEGY #5 "THE CAROLINA RIG WITH FLOAT AND STOP"
The "Carolina Rig" is nothing more than an egg sinker tied above a barrel
swivel and the hook with leader on the other side of the swivel. It is the most common rig
used in the South. What makes this rig so effective is that the line can slide through the
egg sinker allowing the fish to pick up the bait and swallow it without feeling the weight
of the sinker. I have found it to be an excellent rig to use for casting with natural bait
or unweighted artificials. It works especially well in shallow areas along the edges of
sandbars or channels. I modify the basic rig to some degree for this application. I add a
float midway along the leader to keep the bait off the bottom. The float can be eliminated
if fishing rubber grubs etc. on a plain hook because the rubber floats. I also add a small
split shot about a foot above the egg sinker to stop the sinker from sliding up the line
on the cast. This still allows for the fish to get one foot of unencumbered drop back to
swallow the bait. Try this with a live killie, it really works.
STRATEGY #6 "SLIP-FLOAT" FOR FISHING THE FLATS OR FROM SHORE
How do you present a bait to fish in shallow water especially in areas that might have
a lot of debris or grass on the bottom? The answer is to suspend the bait above the bottom
on some type of float. The next problem is that the water might be eight feet deep. How do
you cast a float with bait on a hook, six or more feet below it? Very difficult at best.
The answer to this is the slip-float. This float has a thin, hollow plastic tube running
through the middle. To fish a bait at a depth of six feet I tie a knot in the line about
six feet from the end of the line. The knot will not pass through the small hole in the
tube but will pass easily through the guides of the rod. I thread the float on the leader
then add a couple of split shots just above the hook which is tied to the end of the line.
The "slip-float" will slide down to the split shot and stop above the hook for
the cast. When it is cast out, the split shot will sink the baited hook until the knot
reaches the tube. If all is right it will be suspended at a depth of six feet which would
be just above the bottom. A live killie or worm swimming just above the bottom when
fishing the flats and edges is deadly on fluke and weakfish. I know of some lunker fluke
caught using this method. It is especially effective when used from shore in calm waters.
STRATEGY #7 SLOW-TROLLING DURING SLACK TIDE
When drifting for fluke, slack water means no action. Because there is no movement, the
area covered is reduced to nothing and so is the fishing. Crabs usually take over during
slack and try to wipe out your bait supply. During this time I usually revert to
slow-trolling. I like to fish a squid/spearing combination and prefer a chrome spinner
blade or "Spin-n-Glow" in front of the hook. I increase the sinker weight to
about 6 oz.. I put the boat in gear and drop back the line about 75 feet and set the rod
in the rod-holder. I then work the boat in and out of gear just enough to maintain slow
forward motion and still have the sinker bouncing along the bottom. While doing this I
watch the rod tip. When the tip indicated a bite, I take the boat out of gear, pick up the
rod, drop the tip to let the fish get on the bait, and strike the fish. This technique can
produce good fishing during what would otherwise be wasted time.
STRATEGY #8 CHUMMING FLUKE
This technique dates back as long as I can remember but is practiced by few. It can be
extremely productive even in times of lean fishing. It will also work well when the water
is churned or murky due to algae blooms. I anchor up in a promising area, preferably a
distance away from all the boat traffic. I set a chum pot loaded with ground bunker on the
bottom or just slightly above the bottom. A moving tide is a must as it will carry the
chum back from the boat and act as an attractant to any fluke in the area. I then fish
behind the chum pot with natural baits, live baits or jigs. I like to fish a live killie
about a foot above the sinker on a three foot leader on a "dead stick" which is
a rod in the rod-holder. I then work a second rod and bounce a bucktail or other
artificial by dropping it just behind the chum pot and bouncing it along the bottom as I
"walk" it back with the tide. If the "dead stick" gets a hit, I can
quickly grab the rod and set the hook. This method has produced excellent catches even
under the most adverse conditions and often bluefish weakfish and bass are caught in the
process. It’s kind of laid back and is an excellent choice when fishing with small
children. Kids like lots of action and this strategy will usually provide it.
STRATEGY #9 FISHING REEF AND WRECK EDGES FOR "DOORMATS"
Fluke are attracted to bottom structure just as is any other predatory fish. They like
to cruise the edges of wrecks and reef piles looking for an unsuspecting baitfish. Very
often it is the largest of fluke that inhabit these areas. This is the place that offers
the opportunity to catch "doormat" fluke, fish 5 lb. or bigger. Of course this
involves more boating expertise but it is worth the effort. Locate a suitable piece of
structure using LORAN, GPS and your recorder. Mark the piece with a couple of buoys so you
know the way it lays and where the outer edges are. If it is in water over 30 feet deep
then fish multifilament line. Fish with larger than normal baits if you really want a big
fish. I prefer a six inch strip of squid or fluke belly with a large spearing or smelt. If
it is late in the season, live snappers are the best. Drift just off the edges of the
structure to prevent snagging. Work the whole perimeter of the structure before moving to
a new piece. This kind of fluke fishing may not provide a lot of action but the quality of
the fish will makes it worthwhile. This is the surest way to catch a trophy fluke.
STRATEGY #10 FLY-FISHING FOR FLUKE
Most fly-fishing enthusiasts don’t consider fluke as a target. I have found
however that they can be caught and provide excellent action and a real challenge. Because
they hug the bottom, sinking lines and shallow water is a must. I prefer to work the edges
of channels and sandbars. I like to anchor so that I can cast into the shallow water and
then let the fly drop down the edge. In certain places it is better to anchor in the
shallows, cast into the deep water, let the line settle to the bottom and work it up the
bank. Which method to use depends upon tide, wind and weed conditions. The fishing itself
is quite simple. A very slow, short stripping action usually works well. My favorite fly
pattern is a "Clouser Minnow" in olive and white. Any descent sand eel imitation
fly will work well. If you fly-fish, give this a try. If you do not fly-fish then I
recommend you consider it for the future. Fly-fishing is very challenging and very
exciting. You won’t catch as many fish as you would using other methods but what you
do catch most memorable.
I hope that these strategies will be helpful to you and your fishing enjoyment. Trying
different things is a lot of fun especially when it works! These techniques can definitely
add to your fishing pleasure and put a few good ones in your cooler. Remember to keep only
what you will use. Conservation is everyone’s responsibility.
Good Fishing,
Captain Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1998
Published in "The Fisherman" August 1998
Table of Contents
INSHORE
FISHING BASICS: CHOOSING
TACKLE AND EQUIPMENT -
EASY AS 1 - 2 - 3
Fishing is a great sport. Its popularity is increasing every day and more and more
people are getting involved. The result of this continued growth is a large number of
eager beginners. Beginners know that knowledge is the key to success. Reading, attending
fishing schools and lectures, and asking questions of those with experience is the key to
knowledge.
Traveling in the circles that I do, I usually end up talking about fishing. The people
most eager to talk fishing are the beginners or those that are relatively inexperienced.
The questions they ask are good questions, to the point and relevant. They want,
appreciate, and deserve answers that are direct and honest. In trying to answer all these
questions over the years, I have noticed that the most commonly asked questions are
related to inshore fishing and specifically to tackle, the tools of the sport.
I have my theories about this observation. Fishing involves a lot more than just having
the right tackle. Knowledge of areas to fish, techniques to apply, bait to use, tides,
weather and numerous other things all are involved in the sport to some extent, but are
not as frequently asked about as is tackle. Why is this? I believe that having the correct
tackle is the best starting point for the beginner and he probably feels the same. It is
something that can be immediately achieved with a modest investment of time and money.
Amassing the proper assortment of tackle and related equipment provides a feeling of
accomplishment and a firm base with which to begin the real job of learning how to fish. I
think the beginner accepts the fact that such knowledge will come slowly with time and
experience. Having the tackle however, is of immediate importance!
Talking tackle is a really big subject and often very confusing for the novice, lacking
the hands on experience. In trying to provide some help, I have organized a list of what I
believe to be the most important concerns for tackle and related equipment. I have tried
to keep this list as simple as possible, listing only three specific suggestions. Wherever
possible I give specific reference to the particular type or product that I use. I feel
this is important because when people ask me questions, they want to know exactly what
product I have used and been successful with.
ROD AND REEL COMBINATIONS
1. Medium/light weight bait-casting.
Penn PPG 4971 rod and 930 reel with 15 lb. Ande line. This outfit would be appropriate
for flounder, fluke, weakfish and small blues.
2. Medium/light spinning.
Penn PSG 4871A rod and 722Z reel with 10 lb. Ande Super Soft line. This would take care
of casting jigs and lures for blues and weaks and school size bass.
3. Medium/light conventional.
Penn PC 3801L rod and 320 GTi levelwind or 25 GLS reels with 25 lb. Ande line.
BOAT EQUIPMENT
1. Chart, navigation and bottom contour, waterproof.
"Carmark" bay chart for sportfishing. This chart provides information about
fishing areas and local names. In addition, a NOAA regulation navigation chart should be
aboard for precision navigation and buoy information.
2. Bait cutting board and knife.
Preferably a rod holder mounted teak or nylon version which is available in most marine
supply houses or the popular and inexpensive bucket mounted board. Dexter or Russell
fillet knives of 7 or 8 inches serve well for both bait and fish cleaning purposes.
3. Landing net.
I prefer a telescoping model that stores easily, with at least a 30 inch wide opening.
Several different manufacturers produce such nets but be sure it utilizes a polypropylene
mesh. This material is light, nonabsorbent and long lasting.
SPECIAL TACKLE BOX ITEMS
1. Fisherman's pliers.
Parallel jaw pliers with wire cutters, spring loaded, and in the smaller of the two
sizes available, 5 inch. Sargent, Manley, Sampo and Berkeley make good pliers and
stainless steel varieties are available if you can afford the high price.
2. Sharpening stone.
For keeping knives and hooks in top shape. Several different manufacturers, styles and
shapes are available. Keep it as simple as possible.
3. Swivels.
Assorted sizes of high quality barrel and combination barrel/snap swivels should be on
hand. Sampo makes excellent swivels both standard and ball bearing, in all varieties.
HOOKS
1. Pre-smelled and packaged. (various local brands) Have at least one dozen (two
packages) for each of the most sought after species.
My recommendations are:
Fluke - 2/0 English wide gap.
Flounder - #8 Chestertown with yellow beads.
Blackfish - #5 Virginia style.
Weakfish - 2/0 Bait holder.
Stripers - 4/0 to 6/0 Bait holder.
Bluefish - 5/0 with 6 inch single strand wire leader.
2. Loose hooks for live bait.
I use size 7/0 O'Shaugnessy short shank Gamakatsu hooks for stripers and size 5/0 for
weakfish. These hooks are exceptionally sharp right out of the package.
3. Miscellaneous hooks.
For backups, special conditions, and custom rigs tied as needed, I carry an assortment
of O’Shaugnessy style short shank hooks in sizes from #8 to 6/0. Mustad hooks are
excellent quality and reasonably priced for this purpose. Sharpen them before putting them
in your tackle box.
WEIGHTS
1. Sinkers for still and drift fishing.
The basic variety of bank style sinker which is available in all tackle shops will
suffice. Cover the range of 3 to 8 ounces with the bulk of them in the 5 ounce size. This
is the weight I most often use.
2. Drails for live bait fishing.
In areas where water depth is rarely over thirty feet, 3 ounce drails will be just
right in most cases. I also carry a few four ounce and two ounce versions for the odd
occasion when they may be needed. Bead Chain brand is an excellent choice.
3. Small weights for special applications.
On many occasions small specialty weights are useful. I carry an assortment of Dipsey
swivel sinkers, Rubbercore torpedo weights and egg sinkers covering the range from 1/2
ounce to 2 ounces in each style. Water Gremlin is the brand I use.
CASTING LURES
1. Hopkins 1 1/4 ounce no-equal #3SB with single hook white
bucktail.
This is a very versatile productive lure which can be worked at all depths. It will
catch bass, blues and weakfish. As with all lures, if bluefish are around, a short trace
of stranded wire leader should be used to prevent chopped off lines. Berkeley makes
pre-rigged leaders for just such purposes. I use the 6 inch 20 pound test version.
2. Rebel #S3001S, 5 inch sinking minnow in silver with black back.
This will also catch all gamefish but is particularly deadly for mid-water use and when
fish are on the shy side. This is a super lure for big weakfish in water up to 15 feet
deep. It is also a great lure for school bass along the banks and edges of channels.
3. Atom #58P, 1 1/4 ounce "Talking Atom" surface popper.
The best all around surface lure. This lure it most effective with calm water
conditions, in fairly shallow water, or when fish are feeding near the surface. It also
casts a long distance.
ADDENDUM
Those things that I think are a must, but mentioning them where I should have would
have broken my self-imposed rule of only three recommendations.
1. Lead head hooks.
These are a must for rigging plastic lures such as jelly worms and salty dog shrimps.
These are still very effective lures. Mann makes excellent lead heads in two sizes. I
carry at least half a dozen of each size.
2. Diamond Jigs.
These jigs are best for working schools of fish in a vertical fashion rather than
casting. Ava brand jigs are popular and work very well. For bay fishing I use the 007, 17
and 27 sizes both with white tubes and with plain hooks.
3. McClane's Fishing Encyclopedia.
This is a most informative and useful addition to any fisherman's library. I would have
to consider it a part of the basic equipment required. It can provide information about
the life history, feeding habits and basic behavior of the fish you will pursue, the basic
rigs you should use and the knots you will have to learn to tie. I still consult it
frequently and can't imagine not having it.
All that I have mentioned may seem like a lot but it is what I believe to be essential
for the person that really wants to be successful at catching fish. I am also sure that
other people might have recommendations that differ from mine. What I have written is not
the last word, but simply my suggestion. Hopefully it can serve as a guideline for someone
that has made up their mind to quit playing games and do it the right way.
Good fishing,
Capt. Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1991
Table of Contents
HOW
TO HOOK UP WITH THE "FALL SPEEDSTERS"
During late summer and early fall, the inshore and near shore waters become inundated
with what many people refer to as the "Fall Speedsters". I think of them as
miniature "torpedoes". Oceanic Bonito, Green Bonito, False Albacore and Spanish
Mackerel come in close to the shore in a feeding frenzy supported by vast amounts of small
baitfish. These speedy strong fish are capable of runs that can put a bonefish to shame
and they will test the endurance of the angler and his tackle to the maximum limit.
This year is no exception as the waters are loaded with bait and busting schools of
these fine gamefish are a common sight. The problem many anglers have with this fishery is
that being related to the tuna family these fish have extremely keen eyesight and are
extremely line shy. As a result, hooking up with these fish is difficult if not impossible
with typical tackle that might be used to catch other species such as bluefish. In
addition, approaching a feeding school is a difficult proposition as their senses are
extremely keen and they are capable of moving in any direction at great speed.
How can one expect to be successful in catching such great fish? The answer is actually
a combination of things that must all happen at one time. To narrow it down I will reduce
it to two things; "Tackle" and "Stalking."
Tackle requires two very important considerations. It must be top quality and terminal
gear must be almost invisible. Weather it be light or medium spinning or fly tackle, rods,
reels and line must all be in perfect shape. When you do hook up, you can expect a
blistering run of up to 100 yards and sometimes more. A bad guide, chaffed line or rough
drag will result in an instant break-off. All tackle must be working properly and knots
perfectly tied.
I have had great success with spinning gear using a Penn Power Graph rod #PG 5871A
teamed up with a Penn Prion #PR2400 reel loaded with #10 or #12 Berkley XL monofilament
line. This outfit gives me the casting range, extremely smooth drag and the power needed
to subdue these magnificent fish.
The terminal tackle of course is most important for without an effective life-like
presentation that will produce a strike the rest of the system would be meaningless. In
this case stealth is most important. Fluorocarbon leader material is the heart of the
system. At the end of my running line from the reel I tie a very small barrel swivel. I
use a "Trilene" knot for all connections. To the other side of the barrel swivel
I attach a 15 inch piece of #10 fluorocarbon leader material. I then tie the fluorocarbon
leader directly to the lure. My favorite lure is a blue-silver "Crippled
Herring" in ½ or ¾ oz. size. This system will not fail to produce a strike if it
comes within sight of the fish.
When fly-fishing I am using a Penn International #1090 SPT Graphite rod (9 foot, 10
weight) mated with a Penn 2.5 reel. I am loading it up with as much 30 lb. backing as I
can get on the reel and finishing it off with a "Rio Products" intermediate
#20250 Tarpon fly line. I hand tie the tapered butt section of the leader keeping it at
about 6 feet and add a 15 inch tippet section of #10 fluorocarbon leader with my fly tied
directly to the fluorocarbon with a "Trilene" knot. My preferred fly pattern is
an olive/white "Clouser Minnow" in 1/0 or 2/0 size. This setup is deadly with
just about anything that swims in these waters and does especially well with these tough
and wary fish.
With the proper tackle in order, the "Stalk" is the next most important
consideration. These fish could never be approached if they were not busily feeding. When
they are whipping the water into a froth in a feeding frenzy, they are preoccupied with
the chase and can be approached if one is careful. Excessive noise will definitely put the
fish down.
The best method is to observe the direction in which the feeding school is moving and
set up the boat in the direction they are heading. Move slowly into position and get the
rods at ready to make a quick and accurate cast just in front of the moving school. When
the lure hits the water let it sink for just a second and make a steady rapid retrieve
while holding the tip of the rod near the surface of the water. When fly-fishing I
retrieve with a few rapid strips followed by a short pause then more rapid strips. I also
keep the rod tip pointed right at the fly with tip at the surface of the water. Do not try
to strike the fish with the rod. The constant rapid retrieve with spinning gear and a
"strip strike" with fly gear will most effectively set the hook. I have found
these techniques to be most effective. I have also found it necessary on most occasions to
shut down all sonar recorders. The underwater "pinging" sound they make can
spook the fish.
On certain days the fish are very erratic making the "line them up" method
previously described very frustrating. In this case a chase will often work. Invariable
there are terns or gulls following the schools of fish, waiting for the opportunity to
dive in for an easy meal when they chase the bait to the surface. If you watch the birds
carefully, you can determine where an unseen underwater school is located. Follow the
birds so that you will be close when the fish come to the surface or even blind cast to
where you think the school is swimming. All anglers should be ready to make their casts
immediately when the opportunity presents itself. When the fish show on the surface,
hopefully fairly close to the boat, quickly turn the boat in their direction, take it out
of gear, shut down the motor and silently coast in their direction. If the school stays on
top long enough you should have a shot at getting the lures in the strike zone.
When all of this comes together you will certainly hook up with these miniature
"torpedoes" of the sea. When you do, you will never forget the excitement of
that moment and I guarantee that you will become a devotee of this game.
Good Fishing,
Captain Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1999
Published in "The Fisherman" September 1999
Table of Contents
ANDROS ISLAND "THE BONEFISHING CAPITOL OF THE
WORLD"
I love to fish! I used to hate the thought of ending my fishing for the season. Nothing
but a long cold winter to endure before I would again wet a line. Not any more! I
now look forward to taking a fishing trip to some tropical location to break up the long
haul through the off-season. It really gives me something to look forward to and there is
nothing to compare to the Bahamas for great weather and superb fishing. Once you
experience the laid-back atmosphere and beauty of these islands, you will always remember
it and want to return again and again. It can make the prospect of facing another winter
almost enjoyable.
Andros Island is located in the western Bahamas and is known as "The
Bone-fishing Capitol of the World". This island offers a large number
of top quality fishing camps that are dedicated to your fishing success and pleasure. The Andros
Island Bonefish Club (AIBC) and Tranquility Hill Fishing Lodge, just to name a couple,
are located in the same vicinity near Bhering Point. I recently enjoyed a fishing
trip at the AIBC. I didn’t know what to expect and had never been to the
Bahamas. At the prompting of my good friend and fishing buddy, Len Lapsys, we set
up a trip for early July. We met in Fort Lauderdale and chartered a flight to Andros
Island for seven nights and six days of fly-fishing for the "ghost of the
flats," the elusive bonefish!
We arrived at the small airport at Andros Town, quickly cleared customs and were
met by a car from the camp. After a 20 minute ride we arrived and were greeted by the
friendly staff. I instantly knew I was going to have a great time. Within an hour we were
headed for the flats, and I caught my first bone after just 10 minutes of fishing. It only
got better after that!
The Andros Island Bonefish Club is located on the eastern end of the North Bight that
crosses Andros Island. It has a commanding view of the ocean and the mouth of the Cargill
Creek. It is owned and managed by host, Rupert Leadon, who is also the head
guide. Rupert is a superb fisherman, extremely warm and friendly, and runs a top class
operation. He oversees all operations at the camp and is an invaluable source of all kinds
of information from fishing techniques and tackle suggestions to colorful accounts of the
history and lore of the islands. The camp is well maintained and has comfortable
accommodations for up to 24 guests. The main lodge serves as a dining area and has a well
stocked bar with all kinds of beverages and treats and an especially tasty local rum. It
is open and airy and is the place where all gather to swap fishing stories of the day or
just to relax and prepare for another great meal.
At this camp, other than fishing, the food is a close second. Rupert appreciates the
need for abundant food when fishing and makes sure it is always at it’s best. Dining
is informal and family style. His head cook Ike can prepare the most delicious food
specializing in locally caught fresh fish. I especially liked his "Johnny
Cakes," steamy hot with butter to top off the meal. Nothing can top Ike’s conch
fritters for a "hold me over till dinner" treat after returning from a long day
of fishing. I liked a tall local rum with tonic and fresh lime just to add gusto to the
fritters. Of course I was sitting on the patio looking out at the beautiful blue
Caribbean. Exquisite!
Rupert has hired an American, Donna Teeny, to oversee the daily operation of the
camp. Donna is an accomplished angler and fly-fishing enthusiast and can anticipate your
needs. She makes sure that all the details are in order so that your fishing experience
will be most enjoyable.
At the Andros Island Bonefish Club, fishing is the primary focus of the entire staff. A
typical day begins at dawn with a good breakfast. While you eat in the main lodge, the
guides and dockhands like Swiper prepare the boats and load the coolers with food
and beverages. When you finish breakfast, you can make up your lunch from the buffet and
it will be put in your cooler. You then head for the boats and another day of fishing in
paradise.
Bonefish are the principal specialty of this camp but tarpon, permit and huge barracuda
are also common. You can literally catch bonefish from the patio in front of the lodge,
but the best grounds lie in the "Bights," natural navigable breaks that cross
the island from east to west. Andros is known for big "bones" with the average
fish between 5 and 7 lb. and a good number of fish over ten pounds. Only the Florida Keys
can compete with bonefish of this size, but the number of fish in the Keys is far less
than around Andros.
The island is very big and is surrounded by flats. It is two thirds the size of Puerto
Rico, about 125 miles in length and almost fifty miles across and is largely undeveloped.
Only the East Side is inhabited and residents number less than ten thousand. Several US
Navy Submarine bases are located on the island. The East Side sports the third largest
coral reef in the world and attracts many scuba divers. The "Tongue of the
Ocean" lies just outside the reef, and the Caribbean drops off to thousands of feet
of blue water just beyond. Andros is also famous for its "Blue Holes" which were
a topic explored by Jacques Cousteau and the National Geographic Society.
Andros Island has three large "Bights" crossing the island at just about its
midpoint. The North, Middle and South bights all offer excellent fishing around an almost
infinite number of keys and coves. The ultimate fishing can be found on the West Side
which is basically virgin and uninhabited. It is, however, a long run; almost fifty miles
to cross and then another ten miles or more to the good grounds. We made the trek on three
of out six days of fishing. The fish were bigger and more plentiful, and in this area we
had a few shots at big tarpon and permit. On a sad note for fishing in this area, a
commercial crab harvesting business has recently set up operations, and they are taking
large numbers of blue crabs, the natural forage for big tarpon. It’s no wonder that
there has been a noticeable decline in these magnificent gamefish. Even so, during the
height of the season in the winter months, this area is supposed to offer outrageous
fishing with multiple hook-ups of bones and tarpon and many permit. During this time the
fishing is so good closer to the camp, that the long run and additional charge for fuel is
probably unnecessary.
The fishing boats are typical flats boats, Dolphin Super Skiffs with 40 hp
motors and poling platforms. The guides are all very knowledgeable and know the ways of
fish on the flats. They can spot a bonefish, direct your cast and have you set up on the
fish without you ever having seen the fish yourself. Their ability is uncanny. I fished
with Barry Neymour who is a world class guide and an outstanding individual.
Barry works out of several camps and his services command an additional fee. All the
guides at this camp, however, are excellent and each one seems to possess a special talent
for some aspect of this type of fishing. Nick, Chris, Danny, Nelson, Dennis, Brian, Wellie
and all the rest are the best; if you are really lucky, you might get to fish with
Rupert.
I would recommend that you bring your own tackle. The camp caters to fly-fishing but
spinning tackle is also popular. If you wish to have tackle supplied or to fish spinning
gear, let the camp know in advance. They will arrange for tackle and set you up with a
guide that is most knowledgeable with that tackle. You can also arrange for a bottom
fishing trip on the coral reef that lies just one half mile off the shore of the camp.
Once again, let them know ahead of time so all can be prepared for your arrival.
I brought three Penn Fishing Tackle™ fly-fishing setups for my week of
fishing. A #9 and #10 rod with 2.5 fly reels for the bonefish or small tarpon and permit.
I would recommend nothing less than a #8. A floating line is a must as it can be quickly
"water hauled" for a quick follow-up cast and is also very visible right up to
the leader. Visibility of the fly line is essential to the guide so he can determine the
proximity of the line and fly to the fish. I used Rio Products™ and Cortland™
fly lines and they performed very well. Make sure that you have the maximum amount of
backing on your reel. An eight pound bonefish will strip over a hundred yards of line
before you know it happened. I found myself looking at the reel many times wondering if I
was going to get "spooled" by a hard charging bonefish that was heading for
Cuba. I hand tied my own leaders to about 7 feet with 10 lb tippet, but the guides will
gladly set up a leader system if you so choose.
I also brought along a big gun #13-15 rod with 4.5 AR reel in case we ran into really
large tarpon. I had the opportunity for one shot at a big tarpon with that rod and it cast
very well. However, as fishing luck would have it, after a perfect cast of 70 feet, a
needlefish picked up my fly just as the tarpon was ready to inhale it. Goodbye tarpon!
What a bummer! The next time I visit the AIBC, I want to try for a big barracuda with that
rod. Some of the barracuda that move onto the flats look like logs. I can only imagine
what it would be like to be hooked up with a fly to a four foot long "cuda" that
is trapped in the shallows of the flat!
What fly pattern should you bring? From what I witnessed you only need one, the "gotcha"
shrimp imitation fly. It is the favorite in all of Andros. My buddy Lenny brought boxes
full of "gotcha" flies and other varieties all tied on Tiemco™ hooks
and hand sharpened to a needle point. "Gotchas" tied on a #4 hook for bonefish
and on a 2/0 hook for large tarpon will cover your needs. The guides however will always
have a selection of other flies if the fish become picky. They pride themselves on having
a successful trip and a satisfied customer. They will have what it takes to catch fish
under any conditions.
Another thing to consider for equipment would be wading shoes. Sometimes wading and
casting from a place that is inaccessible to a boat can be very productive. The biggest
bonefish spotted on my trip were in a sheltered cove behind a sand bar that even the flats
boat could not cross. The fish were in a shallow pool, and they were huge. There were
three of them and all had to be near record size. I would guess the smallest was almost 12
lb., and the largest may have been 14 lbs. or more. I jumped out of the boat and waded to
where I could make a cast. Once again, I was unsuccessful as the fish kept
"spooking" from the fly no matter which pattern I used. It was a real thrill
however, and I can remember my knees shaking all through the stalk.
Before making the trip I purchased a pair of high contrast amber polarized prescription
sunglasses. I cannot tell you how valuable they were. The greatest excitement in fishing
the flats is the visual impression of the fish and underwater life especially the
"visual take" of the fly. The high contrast amber really allowed me to see what
was happening. I consider quality glasses crucial to fishing success and pleasure. In
fact, I can attribute my first big "bone," a fish of about 8 lbs., to my fishing
glasses. Barry spotted a group of fish moving across our bow as we were poling in a cove
near "Big Wood" Key. He said they were moving to the right at about 1
o’clock and 60 feet out (directions to a fish are given by the guide as hours on a
clock face with 12 o’clock at the bow and 6 o’clock at the stern, add the
distance and you know just where to look and cast) and that there was a big one in the
bunch. When I looked at the spot, I could really see the fish clearly with the high
contrast amber lenses and noticed that the big one Barry wanted me to target was closest
to the boat. I made one false cast and knew it would land beyond the big boy and be
gobbled up by a smaller fish. I made the adjustment on my cast by just slowing my
"shooting haul" and the fly dropped five feet in front of the big
"bone". He spotted it almost immediately and ate it in a flash of silver. I set
the hook with a long strip keeping the rod tip low to the water and pointed at the fish.
He was hooked solidly and, as usual with bonefish, gave me about a second to clear my line
before he took his first run. What a run it was: all my fly line and at least one hundred
yards of backing against a stiff drag. Two more blistering runs and 10 minutes later, my
first "bragging rights" bonefish was at the boat and ready for a gentle release.
Travel to Andros is fairly easy. The big decision is whether or not to charter a small
plane for the hop from Fort Lauderdale or Nassau or to go with the only
scheduled airline, Bahamas Air. Bahamas Air is rather casual about arrival and
departure times. If time is critical or you are traveling with a group, I would definitely
recommend a charter flight. If money is not a problem, then by all means take the charter.
Bahamas Air is about $150 one way from Fort Lauderdale with a stop in Nassau and at
least three hours travel time. A charter is about $700, will accommodate 5 to 7 people and
you will be in Andros in an hour.
When I do it again this winter, I plan to fly directly to Nassau on a scheduled airline
from the States and the take the short 15 minute hop on a charter flight to Andros. The
cost for the charter is about $300 for up to 5 passengers. If I can’t hook up with
another person or two I will hop a Bahamas Air flight for about $50.
At the Andros Island Bonefish Club the prices are very reasonable. $2205 per person,
double occupancy, will get you 7 nights and 6 full days of fishing with guides and all
meals. For those with less time available, like "I have to get out of here for a long
weekend," shorter stays are also popular. Four nights and 3 full days of fishing with
guides and meals goes for $1185 per person double occupancy.
When you consider the cost of a vacation to any other destination, a trip to Andros
compares very well.
If you like to fish light tackle for the ultimate challenge and thrill then flats
fishing on Andros Island should be your next destination and the Andros Island Bonefish
Club is definitely a great place to stay.
Related Internet Sites:
http://www.skimmeroutdoors.com (Captain Al’s website and additional Andros photos)
http://www.bahamas-mon.com/hotels/abone/index.html (AIBC website)
http://www.reefdiver.com/Byers/phones.htm (Bahamas Information)
http://www.bahamasnet.com (/Bahamas Information)
Air Stream Limited(www.airstreamairline.com)
Executive Air Charter and Air Ambulance Service
Nassau International Airport 1-242-377-1385
Domestic Bahamas Travel 1-242-377-3362
Charter flights to Andros from Nassau
$250 one way for up to 5 passeners.
Flights to all other locations in the Bahamas.
Ask for Beverley- she is the person that can handle it all!!
Phone Numbers:
Andros Island Bonefish Club
Phone: 1-242-368-5167 FAX: 1-242-368-5235
Captain Barry Neymour
1-242-368-4485 OR 1-242-368-4025
Fax: 1-242-368-5235
As a Mercury Marine Pro Team Captain I would be remiss not to mention the two
closest Mercury dealers:
Rahming Marine Lightbourne Marine
Kemps Bay E. Bay St.
South Andros Nassau
1-242-369-1608 1-242-393-5285
Good luck and good fishing,
Captain Al Lorenzetti
© Al Lorenzetti 1999
Published in "The Fisherman" January 2000
Table of Contents
I
was very determined and experimented with all sorts of combinations. I finally developed a
terminal rig that has proven to work quite well. I use a large double snap (Berkley
doulock) which is attached to the eye of a single, very sharp 6/0 - 8/0 live-bait style
hook. The small locking side of the double lock snap is secured around the eye of the hook
so that the open large side of the snap points in the opposite direction to the bend in
the hook. The hook itself or a needle is used to make a small hole in the tough nose
tissue of the bunker. The large side of the snap is passed through this hole from the top
of the nose and out the mouth of the bunker. The snap is then locked closed. The hook will
remain free swinging at the side of the bunker’s head. When a bass attacks its prey
as it normally does, head first, it is almost immediately hooked somewhere in the mouth
area. The hook-up percentage is excellent using this rig. Most importantly, since most
fish are mouth hooked, they may be released relatively unharmed. 
